Archive for the ‘featured producer’ Category

Don’t get the “wrong” idea… Jumilla Monastrell “Wrongo Dongo”

Monday, September 6th, 2010

A name can be deceiving. For example, if you’ve never tasted “sweetbreads” before, it may be helpful to know that they are neither sweet nor bread, and in fact have little at all to do with such sugary confections. Wine can also have a tendency to slightly confuse. Take the improbably-named Bodegas Juan Gil “Wrongo Dongo” Jumilla Monastrell 2008. When Bodegas Juan Gil decided to attach a funny title and quirky label to their wine, they certainly weren’t the first to engage in this type of bottle marketing. They say never judge a book by its cover, but indeed, names and labels have been shown to have a potential influential effect on the bottom line.

But does this make “Wrongo Dongo” the “wrong” choice? Do not be deceived. Their 100% Monastrell (Mourvèdre) from the arid Jumilla region of south eastern Spain is worthy of consideration beyond its label. The Juan Gil winery has been in the family for four generations, specializing in what is one of Spain’s more exotic native grapes. Situated 700 meters above sea level, the fruit grows at high daytime temperatures and cools down by as much as 77°F at night, promoting the heavy ripening needed while slowing down its natural vigor. The wine, jumping with ripe blackberry fruit and aromatic herbs is remarkably balanced despite its raised alcohol level (15%).

And at $11 a bottle, we at Vino find it particularly appealing, no matter what is written on the label. For a wine with a silly name, “Wrong Dongo” exhibits all the right stuff.

Bodegas Juan Gil “Wrongo Dongo” Jumilla Monastrell 2008
$11

For more information and please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.

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Wine that’s a mouthful: Georkapolous Malagouzia

Friday, September 3rd, 2010


Wine is its own language, and sometimes it happens to be Greek. This can be frightening given its profusion of syllables (to be fair, German pronunciation has its own obstacles; the word trockenbeerenauslese comes to mind). Still, if one can subvert their phobia of foreign languages, Greek wine affords an abundance of pleasure at a price that reflects the populace’s aversion to saying words they can’t pronounce. Georgakopoulos Estate Malagouzia 2008 happens to be exactly this type of wine: a white that’s full on flavor and distinctiveness yet greatly undervalued.

The family-run Georgakopoulos Estate was founded in 2000 in the area of Mendenitsa in central Greece. Located 7.5 miles from the sea, the village is home to the remains of a beautiful medieval castle. The rolling hills are situated at altitude of 450-600 m (1300-1900 ft) and provide the perfect aspect for ripening the international and indigenous grape varieties grown on the property.

Malagouzia (or Malagousia, depending on who you ask) is a rare Greek grape variety that had almost gone extinct in the mid-20th century. Had it not been for the work of winemaker Vangelis Gerovassiliou and viticulturalist Vassilis Logothetis, the grape would have surely been lost as would the wonderful wines its capable of producing. Vino’s unscientific estimate places the number of estates that cultivate this obscure but delicious wine at less than two dozen. So what’s it taste like? Imagine Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier had a baby. It’s unoaked, ripe and lush. It is a wine a that is every bit as much about texture and weight as flavor.

As you’d expect, you won’t find this wine everywhere. There’s even a dearth of information about it online. Of course, Georgakopoulos Estate does have its own Facebook page. And the good news is that it’s in English.

Georgakopolous Estate Malagouzia 2008
$16

For more information and please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.

Sancerre: an original standard

Friday, August 27th, 2010

There is perhaps no other grape out there that defines varietal recognition more than Sauvignon Blanc.  Its unmistakable aromatic clarity and zesty acidity have made it a popular choice in all corners of the globe. While regions from the north of Italy to California to New Zealand can boast wonderful expressions of Sauvignon Blanc, it is sometimes nice to fall back on an original standard. Lucien Crochet “Le Chêne” Sancerre 2007 brings out the essence of what you can rarely find anywhere else but in the villages surrounding the town of Sancerre in France’s Loire Valley. Its smoky minerality and bracing acidity remind us of how the marriage of grape and terroir can reach a singularity of focus and excellence.


Lucien and his son Gilles run an operation centered in the town of Bué that has been in the family for centuries. They hand harvest the grapes from the famed limestone hills of the “Clos du Chene Marchand” at very low yields and allow 6 months of yeast contact in stainless steel before filtering and fining.  Malolactic fermentation is always omitted in order for the wine to keep its racy finish intact. The result is an intense display of green fruit, chalky minerality and mouth watering finish; the archetype of pure Sancerre.

With less than 1700 cases of “Le Chêne” produced each year, we think it is certainly worth picking up a bottle of this true classic.

Lucien Crochet “Le Chêne” Sancerre 2007
$32

For more information please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.

Crazy for Clairette

Wednesday, August 25th, 2010

Clairette Blanc is a white grape from the South of France that has been in continued decline. Used mostly as a blending grape in the regions of Languedoc and Provence, it finds itself susceptible to many issues that dog the winemaker. Then why are we at Vino so crazy about Château de Roquefort Clairette 2009?

Raimond de Villeneuve (left) takes great care to bring this lesser-loved variety to life by planting his vines at a 1000-foot altitude, allowing for a longer ripening season. By doing this, the wine retains acidity and freshness while having time to develop complexities that it normally would not. He also uses all natural methods in the vineyard, tending to vines that range from 15 to over 40 years old.

The result is a dry white wine that expresses balance and elegance, a far cry from any other 100% Clairette whose path you may cross. Try some while the summer is still here: it may make you crazy too!

Château de Roquefort Clairette 2009
$17

For more information please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.

The wines of Roquefort are well in keeping with the temperament of its owner. For these are not “serious” wines. They are wines for people who seriously love to drink wine – not for sipping, sniffing and hours of “umming and ahhring”. True they possess the structure, content and balance of “serious” wines, but above all the word pleasure comes to mind. These are wines one just cannot get enough of. And so on… let’s open a bottle. Hurry up, I’m thirsty.

–Tim Johnston, Juveniles, Paris

Cesanese: Ciociaria’s greatest grape

Monday, August 23rd, 2010

You will find Paolo Perinelli’s sprawling estate as you travel southeast from Rome and into the foothills of the Appenines. The family-run farm sits at about 1200 ft asl on the outskirts of Acuto, a village in the heart of the Ciociaria, an area famous for its wine and olive oil. Paolo tends the highly-regarded local variety Cesanese d’Affile on a beautiful property called Casale della Ioria, that also produces olives, stone fruit and livestock. For over twenty years he has managed all aspects of his operation.

Perinelli’s approach to winemaking is based on rigorous vineyard management and a low-intervention protocol in the cellar that emphasizes cleanliness and carefully monitored fermentation. His methods reveal a great appreciation for Cesanese’s true varietal character with all labels exhibiting zesty acidity and aromas of cherries and herbs tinged with a slightly acrid smokiness. His use of wood in aging is judicious and includes a variety of barrel sizes and types of oak, very little new.

We carry all three of Paolo’s Cesanese labels:

Campo Novo 2007
$17

Campo Novo is made in a youthful style that highlights the vibrant cherry fruit character that is typical of Cesanese. Paolo selects fruit from his youngest vines and vinifies with a short maceration and ageing entirely in stainless steel.

Cesanese del Piglio 2007
$24

Cesanese del Piglio is made of grapes harvested from 35-year-old vines. Both Cesanese d’Affile and Cesanese Commune are used. The wine is aged in large Slavonian oak botti for up to 12 months.

Torre del Piano 2007
$42

Torre del Piano is made of grapes rigorously selected from the property’s best and oldest vines. It undergoes a lengthy maceration and fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel and is aged in French barriques, 50% new, for 12 months.

Ciociaria is a politically undefined area between Rome and Naples centering around the province of Frosinone in Lazio. (Vino also carries a digestivo, Amaro Ciociaro from the area.) Its name is derived from “ciocie”, primitive sandals worn by sheep and cattle herders in the Central Appenines.  Italian actor Marcello Mastroianni was born in the area, while actor/director Vittorio De Sica and poet/writer/director Pier Paolo Pasolini lived and worked there. Indeed, De Sica’s 1960 movie La Ciociaria adapted from the Alberto Moravia novel of the same name (but released as Two Women in the U.S.), starred Sophia Loren as a widowed Roman shopkeeper trying to protect her teenage daughter during World War II. Loren’s performance earned her an Academy Award, the first time an acting Oscar had been given for a non-English speaking role.

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For more information please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.

Where the wild wines are: Madiran and Marcillac

Wednesday, August 18th, 2010

Being a wine lover in New York City comes with its obvious benefits, but sometimes we’re want to get away from it all and break free from the constraints of usual. If its “new” and unique wines you seek, we suggest venturing into the wild. Southwestern France is home to myriad appellations and some of France’s most interesting wines. and Pierre Laplace Madiran 2007Domaine du Cros Marcillac Lo Sang del Païs 2008 are two great examples of affordable, everyday wines with charm and personality from this wine frontier.

Madiran, Gascony’s most dynamic  appellation, specializes in the durable Tannat grape. These ruggedly, tannic wines have historically needed cellaring in order to become approachable. Pierre Laplace (above, with his family) incorporates micro-oxygenation, a method of softening wines that has gained wide acceptance around the globe. They also blend in Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab Franc to add further complexity. The end result captures all of the raw concentration of dark berry fruit and spice and combines it with a velvety finish. Interestingly, there are some who claim that Tannat could even help your brain!

Not as widely recognized but equally as unique, the wines of Marcillac evolved from a long history dating back to the Romans. Fer (locally known as Mansois) is the star variety of the region, lending wines intense cassis and blackberry fruit notes and a characteristic peppery finish. For four generations, Domaine du Cros (above) has been producing excellent wines from Fer. Their “Lo Sang del Païs” cuvée is hand harvested from 25 year old vines. It is then vinified in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks for 15-20 days, keeping the natural fresh fruit character intact.

At Vino, we have always had a soft spot for these hard-to-find wines of the Southwest because of their honest “rough around the edges” appeal. So the next time you’re ready to venture off the beaten path, grab one of these untamed wines.

Pierre Laplace Madiran 2007
$14

Domaine du Cros Marcillac Lo Sang du Païs 2008
$15

For more information please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.

All that sparkles…

Friday, August 13th, 2010

There is something magic about Champagne. Yes, we love Lambrusco and sometimes crave Cava, but it can’t be denied that only Champagne, in its singular, sparkling way, is the most celebratory of wines. It turns grins into smiles and moments into memories. Plus, it is the ultimate anytime wine. Enjoy it with an omelet during a summer brunch, sip it seaside at an Autumn clambake, or toast the New Year and relish it on its own.

With all our sentiments about Champagne, we knew that the first one Vino was going to carry had to be special. When we tasted Aubry Premier Cru Brut NV (Champagne, France) we knew we had found the one. Imported by Terry Theise, the “madman” greatly responsible for America’s recent love affair with Riesling, Aubry is a small producer, the kind labeled as a Grower Champagne. This means that Aubry actually grows the grapes they eventually turn into Champagne as opposed to the big houses (think orange label) that purchase their grapes from some of the 19,000 growers in the region.

The Brothers Aubry (Pierre and Philippe) are sole proprietors of their estate in Jouy-les-Reims where they farm 17 hectares of vineyards. Their total production is a miniscule 11,700 cases (by comparison Dom Perignon produces over 400,000 cases). The estate is unique in that they maintain biodiversity by continuing to grow (and make wines from) ancient and rare Champagne grape varieties like Petit Meslier and Fromenteau.


Vino is proud to offer Aubry’s Premier Cru Brut which is a blend of 50% Pinot Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. It has only 6 grams per liter of dosage (translation: it’s dry with classic high acidity). The wine is crisp and expressive with a wonderful balance of apple fruit and toast as well as a lingering finish. And because you’d be hard pressed to find an ad for Aubry in Vogue, the wine constitutes what we believe to be one of Champagne’s best values: it sells for under $40. Now that’s worth celebrating.

Aubry Premier Cru Brut NV (Champagne, France)
$39

For more information please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.

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A Beaujolais that can stand the heat

Friday, August 6th, 2010

Damn, it’s hot out there! Where does one turn if they want to enjoy red wine in this oven? Lately, we’ve found ourselves pining for some Beaujolais. It’s not the stereotypical “Nouveau” that we’ve had on our minds, but Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorées “L’Ancien” Beaujolais 2008, a wine that takes itself much more seriously. Don’t get us wrong, Beaujolais is a delightful wine that can be easily misunderstood. Aside from much of the simpler quaffing versions, some of the Cru vineyard wines can often share more in common with Pinot Noirs from Burgundy than the hyper fruity, pear-drop and banana concoctions sold on the third Thursday of November.

Jean-Paul Brun (above) has gained notoriety for producing his wine in a way that certainly caught some heat. As a matter of fact, he was even denied AOC status for part of his 2007 “Vieilles Vignes” because it did not conform to the norm. Although this old vine Beaujolais doesn’t come from one of the respected Cru sites, it shows an exceptional balance of ripe berry fruit and soft structure that is not overinflated and will even last a few years. This can be credited to the “Old Style” method of winemaking that he engages in. Only indigenous yeasts are used for fermentation. No sugar is added to bring up the alcohol, a practice commonplace in this region. He limits the use of sulfites and filtration. He also vinifies in the classic method and not the rushed, overheated carbonic maceration that gives that super fruity effect. To him, the Gamay grape expresses itself finest when ripened naturally and treated with respect. At Vino, we couldn’t agree more.

The best part about this stellar Beaujolais is that in or out of a heatwave, it’s still hot stuff!

Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorées “L’Ancien” Beaujolais 2008
$19

For more information please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.

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Introducing Bacco: four new wines from Puglia

Tuesday, July 20th, 2010

Though 2010 has been the year of international expansion at Vino, we’ve not forgotten our southern Italian roots. Vino is still the place to find the widest selection of top Italian wines, which is why we’re excited to welcome a brand new addition to our shelves from the heel of Italy’s boot. Bacco is a series of four classic wines from Puglia, each highlighting the region’s native varieties and winemaking tradition.

Winemaker Antonio Romano of the esteemed Leverano estate Conti Zecca has produced a line of wines that he feels best characterize the most significant indigenous varieties of the Salento peninsula. In keeping with tradition, all four wines exhibit great varietal character, represent tremendous value and overflow with the sun-drenched charms of Italy’s meridionale.

The name “Bacco” comes from the Italian for Bacchus, the Greek-Roman god of wine. Also known as Dionysius, this winemaking deity is said to inspire ritual madness, joyful worship, ecstasy, carnivals and celebration. We’re hoping Bacco (the wine) will generate a similar reaction in those who drink it (well, apart from the madness part). The wines’ label features a reproduction of Bohemian sculptor Dominikus Auliczek’s baroque porcelain Bacchus, originally created for Nymphenburg in 1770. Traditional Pugliese wine and classic Bavarian porcelain: it’s a wonder nobody thought of it sooner…

Taste all four wines next Friday from 5:30pm!

Bacco Malvasia 2009
$13

Bacco Negroamaro Rosato 2009
$13

Bacco Negroamaro 2008
$13

Bacco Primitivo 2007
$15

BACCO TASTING
Friday, July 30
5:30-7:30pm

Tasting is free, no reservation required. For more information please contact 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.

Bobal: a diamond in the rough

Monday, July 19th, 2010

Have you ever met somebody who you swear one day would hit the big time?  Think you’d see them appear on that super star discovery show? No, not Idol or “This Place” Got Talent… the real super star discovery show. That’s how we felt when I was first introduced to Bobal, the hidden gem from Spain’s south-eastern Valencia region.


Known mostly as a native workhorse that produces loads of juice concentrate and fills up blends for a color boost, this third most planted Spanish variety is finally beginning to forge an identity as a grape worthy of savoring. Documents show that The Utiel-Requena appellation has hosted Bobal since the 15th Century. By adapting to the extremes of the local climate this vigorous grape has made itself uniquely at home here. It is bold and rich in character, but unlike other important Spanish varietals like Monastrell, it retains acidity and is not exceptionally high in alcohol.  For careful winemakers who employ the fruit of older vines, they are discovering its great potential to produce powerful wines of complexity and longevity.


Vera de Estenas is one such producer. Founded by the Martinez family in the 1940s, they hand harvest their Bobal from low yield vines up to 100 years of age. Current third generation winemaker Felix Martinez Roda matures the wine in tank and French barriques, allowing its intensity to broaden, giving us deep complex fruit with balanced structure. It’s the kind of profile that makes one wonder “Where have you been?” Although they already know where it has been, more and more producers from the region are determined to be a part of where it is going. From where we’re standing, that looks like the Stars, baby!

Vera de Estenas Bobal 2008 $13


Photos courtesy of Vera de Estenas.

For more information please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.