Archive for the ‘charles scicolone’ Category

Brunello, Chianti, and Super Tuscan Seminar; Wines of Roma

Wednesday, January 10th, 2007

The class schedule is available online: click here to view the complete schedule.

THIS WEEK’S FEATURED CLASS:

Heavy Hitters II: Brunello, Chianti, and Super Tuscans
Wednesday, February 14 ($95)

In the late 1860s, the Iron Baron Bettino Ricasoli hailed Sangiovese as the grape that “married best” with the Tuscan soil and he wrote the first official formula for Chianti, with Sangiovese as the primary grape for the blend. In the 1880s, Tancredi Biondi Santi produced the first Brunello di Montalcino by experimenting with growing sites and different clones of Sangiovese. The Brunello grape (also known as Sangiovese Grosso and Prugnolo Gentile), he discovered, was ideal for making long-lived, complex red wines. In the 1960s, Nicolo’ Incisa della Rocchetta, owner of the legendary race horse, Ribot, released the first vintage of Sassicaia as a vino da tavola or table wine, the first Super Tuscan. Inspired by the wines of Bordeaux and its famous Graves terroir (named after the “gravelly” soil), he had planted Cabernet Sauvignon in the pebbly soil of Bolgheri (hence the name Sassicaia from the Italian sassi meaning “pebbles”). In the twenty-first century, the legacy of these historic wines continues to resonate across the globe. Some would even say that they should be credited with the current renaissance and overwhelming popularity of Italian wines today. Wine Director Charles Scicolone leads participants through a guided tasting of some of Toscana’s greatest wines.

To register or for more information, please email register@vinosite.com.

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Please join us this Friday (5:30-7:30) and Saturday (4:30-6:30) for our FREE weekly tastings. This week Charles and the Vino staff will be pouring six wines from Lazio.

For more information on this and other events at Vino, please email events@vinosite.com.

Charles Scicolone, Wine DirectorLazio is known for Frascati but what people don’t realize is that it is one of the best places to grow French varietals. These red varietals, basically, Cabernet and Merlot, in my opinion, do better in Lazio than in any other part of Italy and even better than in some places where they are the native grapes.

One of these is the Colli Picchioni from Paola di Mauro, which is Cabernet, Merlot, and perhaps a little bit of Cesanese. This is a classic wine that can age very well. I have been to the winery a number of times and every time I go there, her son Armando, who I believe still owns a restaurant in Roma, opens up a 1985 Colle Picchioni, which is always spectacular. Paola gives cooking lessons at the estate and for lunch always makes fried, breaded lamb chops, which go very well with the 1985 Colle Picchioni.

Another one of my favorites is the Quattro Mori, made from four French red varietals: Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. The wine is called Quattro Mori (or “Four Moors”) not because it is made from four grapes but because the ancestor of the present owner was a commander in the battle of Lepanto (1571) where the Italians defeated the forces of the Sultan. The commander brought four Moors back to the town of Marino (Lazio) with him and a fountain with their likeness was erected in the town square to commemorate the victory (in the sculpture, they are supporting the fountain). From the dining from of the winery, one can see St. Peter’s and the lights of Roma at night. This is a wonderful wine, which has that leathery flavor with a lot of fruit. It is a wine that could probably be enjoyed now but that will also age gracefully. We’ll also be tasting two white wines from the same producer, Castel de Paolis.

This Friday and Saturday, we’ll also be tasting a new wine, the Rosso del Frusinate by Casale della Ioria. Some of you may know the 100% Cesanese that this winery makes. When I was in Roma, I had the Cesanese with my favorite dish, which is lamb. I don’t remember if it was grilled, roasted, or fried, but it was a great combination. Even though it is very difficult to find in this country, Casale della Ioria’s wines are very popular in Roma. The Rosso del Frusinate is made from Cabernet, Merlot, and Cesanese.

So when in Roma, do what the Romans do, drink wine that’s made just outside of Roma and from the Castelli Romani.
–Charles Scicolone, Wine Director, I Trulli and Vino

Charles would love to hear from you: please email him at charles@vinosite.com.

Wines of Puglia

Wednesday, January 3rd, 2007

Taste Wines from Puglia at Vino this Fri. & Sat.

Fri. & Sat., January 5-6
see Charles’ “Dispatch from Puglia” below
FREE
Fri., 5:30-7:30 – Sat. 4:30-6:30 @ Vino

For information on these or any other events at Vino and/or I Trulli, please email events@vinosite.com.

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Winter/Spring 2007 Class Schedule

We are pleased to announce that the Winter/Spring 2007 class schedule is now online. We’ve added a number of classes, including “Brunello, Chianti, and Super Tuscans” and “Handmade Pasta with Dora Marzovilla.”

Click here to view the 2007 schedule.

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Wine Opinion: Dispatch from Lecce

Charles Scicolone, Wine DirectorIn November, the Region of Puglia, Puglia DOC, invited Michele and myself for seven days to tour the southern part of Puglia. For those of you who don’t know, Puglia is the region that forms the heel of Italy’s boot. And, of course, the owner of I Trulli and Vino, Nicola Marzovilla, and his family are from the town of Rutigliano in the province of Bari, Puglia.

The restaurant I Trulli takes its name from the famous UNESCO-protected cone-shaped houses that are found in the picturesque town of Alberobello (see the pictures, right, by Nicola’s brother Michael Marzovilla). If you’ve ever been to I Trulli, you know that the wood-fired oven is shaped just like a trullo (singular of trulli). The interesting part is that one half of the trulli are in the sunlight and one half are in the shade. The half that is in sunlight is where all the people have turned one of the cones into some kind of tourist shop. The other half, in the shade, is where “the other half” lives… in other words, all the normal people. In Alberobello, the church is a trullo, the restaurants are trulli, and there is even a trulli hotel.

We visited the cities of Lecce, a great baroque city, Martina Franca, Locorotondo, and Trani, which is noted for its famous dessert wine, Moscato di Trani. One of the highlights of the trip was the visit to Conti Zecca in Leverano. Conti Zecca is one of our favorite wineries and we carry a number of its wines, like the popular Rosato which is made from Negro Amaro and Malvasia Nera, and the Cantalupi, a classic Salice Salentino made from the same grapes, of course, the Nero, a modern-style wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Negro Amaro, a label that has won the coveted Tre Bicchieri award and a wine that I know many of you enjoy.

I first visited Conti Zecca twelve years ago with Michele and Nicola and that was when I first tasted their wines and I really liked them. Now, finally, after all these years, we have them in the store. We were introduced to Conti Zecca by a mutual acquaintance. That night one of the counts invited us for dinner at the estate. This mutual acquaintance was not planning to dine with us but rather was going to meet his wife for dinner in Lecce. However, when the count counted the number of people, there were exactly thirteen. He told our friend that he either needed to take one person away to dine with him in Lecce or he had to stay and eat dinner so that there would either be twelve or fourteen at the table. He did this, he explained, because thirteen people at a table is an unlucky number. The count was not kidding. Our mutual friend called his wife and told her what was the situation was. She understood and he did not leave until dessert was served. That’s a true story.

We also visited the area where some of the best Primitivo is made. That is the Primitivo di Manduria. (This Friday and Saturday at Vino we will be tasting the Primitivo di Manduria Tradizione del Nonno, a traditional wine made in the classic style, one of my absolute favorites.)

In the beginning of September, our friends at Tour de Forks are doing a tour of Puglia which looks like it’s going to be a lot of fun. What makes it even better is that they have invited Michele and myself to go along on the trip. Michele, of course, will be the food expert, and I, of course, will say something about the wines. We hope that some of you will be able to join us but if you are otherwise engaged, please come this Friday and Saturday and taste some of Puglia’s best wines with us at Vino. Until then…

–Charles Scicolone, Wine Director, I Trulli and Vino

Charles would love to hear from you: please email him at charles@vinosite.com.

Italian Bubbly, New Class Schedule

Wednesday, December 27th, 2006

Taste 6 Sparkling Wines at Vino this Fri. & Sat.

Fri. & Sat., December 29-30
Ring in the New Year Italian Style
FREE
Fri., 5:30-7:30 – Sat. 4:30-6:30 @ Vino

For information on these or any other events at Vino and/or I Trulli, please email events@vinosite.com.

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Winter/Spring 2007 Class Schedule

We are please to announce that the Winter/Spring 2007 class schedule is now online. We’ve added a number of classes, including “Brunello, Chianti, and Super Tuscans” and “Handmade Pasta with Dora Marzovilla.”

Click here to view the 2007 schedule.

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Wine Opinion: New Year’s all’italiana

This time of year, everyone’s thoughts turn to sparkling wine. For some reason, most people think that the only sparkling wine comes from France. This, of course, is not true. The Italians make wonderful sparkling wine, not only from traditional grapes, but also, from some very unusual grapes. One very good choice is Prosecco, which has great bubbles, is relatively inexpensive, and is the most popular sparkling wine in Italy today.

The sparkling wine, however, that intrigues me the most is the Caluso Spumante, by Orsolani, a wine made from 100% Erbaluce grapes (a variety nearly identical to the Greco of the South). This particular wine is not only great for toasting in the new year but is also a great food wine. What makes a great food wine, you ask? The ability of the wine to go with different types of food. The Caluso Spumante has good acidity (which cuts through the fat of what you’re eating). It has nice fruit flavors (which give body to the wine and make it stand up to flavored foods). And it has a really nice, clean after taste (which refreshes your palate as you change courses in a meal).

It just so happens that on Christmas morning, I had scrambled eggs and white truffles along with the Caluso Spumante by Orsolani. It was a perfect combination: the eggs, of course, were local but the truffles, like the wine, came from Piemonte.

This wine also goes very well with lobster, especially lobster boiled and dressed with lemon and butter. It seems that the fruity flavors of the wine and its good acidity make it a great combination for the fatty meat of the lobster and the butter but it also stands up to the tartness of the lemon.

In Italy, it is considered good luck to eat lentils on New Year’s day. Usually, this is combined with bollito misto, arrosto misto, or zampone. Panettone is also traditionally served on New Year’s, the famous cake of Milano, and it is paired with sweet sparkling wine, such as the Moscato d’Asti from Cascina Castle’t in Piemonte or the Malvasia Frizzante by La Stoppa in Emilia-Romagna. The latter is a very unusual wine that you don’t see very often. It’s the kind of wine that the farmers in the Italian countryside make. The first time I tasted this wine, I thought to myself this would be a great combination with any type of biscotti, panettone, or pan d’oro. It’s a perfect end-of-the-meal wine: it’s low in alcohol and fresh and bubbly and tasty.

This is Charles Scicolone, like 007, raising a glass of bubbly to all of you and wishing one and all a happy and healthy new year.

Buon 2007 a tutti!!!

–Charles Scicolone, Wine Director, I Trulli and Vino

Charles would love to hear from you: please email him at charles@vinosite.com.

Half Bottles: The Perfect Stocking Stuffer

Wednesday, December 13th, 2006

Taste 7 Half Bottles at Vino this Fri. and Sat.

Fri. & Sat., December 15-16
Half Bottles: the perfect stocking stuffer
FREE
Fri., 5:30-7:30 – Sat. 4:30-6:30 @ Vino

This Friday and Saturday we will be pouring 7 wines in half bottle, including the inimitable Barolo La Rocca e La Pira 1996 from Roagna (see below).

Three other wines, besides those below, will also be poured.

Erbaluce La Rustia 2004 (375 ml) Orsolani
100% Erbaluce from one of the appellation’s masters, Gian Luigi Orsolani.
$9.00

Chianti Rufina Riserva 2001 (375 ml) Travignoli
100% Sangiovese aged in traditional large oak casks.
$10.00

San Clemente 2001 (375 ml) Travignoli
A Super Tuscan blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese aged in traditional large oak casks.
$16.00

Barolo La Rocca e La Pira 1997 (375 ml) Roagna
A single-vineyard Barolo from one of our favorite traditional-style producers.
$25.00

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Half Bottle, Will Travel

Question: When you drink half of a half bottle, is the half bottle half full or half empty?

Often, many customers ask me, “how do I preserve my wine once I’ve opened a bottle and drank half of it?” They all say they tried the pump, the spray, the gas, and many other different contraptions. All I tell them to do is to buy a half bottle, drink it, clean it, and next time they drink half of a full bottle, they can pour the remaining wine into the half bottle and re-cork it. If the half bottle is full, all the air is taken up with wine and the wine should last a few days longer and still be in good condition. I hope this sheds light on the age-old conundrum, is the bottle half full or half empty?

There seems to be some controversy on whether or not wine in half-bottle ages more quickly than wines in regular 750 ml bottles and large-format bottles (i.e., magnums, 3- and 6-liters). It would seem to me that wine in a half-bottle would age more quickly because there is less wine and less space taken up by the wine. In my opinion, the more wine you have, the longer it will age. Whether or not this has ever been proven, I do not know, but if anybody out there has scientific proof of this or has done studies, please let me know.

There are a number of reasons why winemakers bottle some of their wine in what are often “pony” bottles or 375 ml bottles (some people call erroneously call them “splits,” but splits are actually half of a half bottle or 187 ml). The historic reason behind smaller bottle sizes is that dried-grape wines and botrytized wines, by their nature, were always low in volume, although high in alcohol. In other words, when you sell Vin Santo, for example, it is usually in a half bottle because that amount is sufficient to serve six persons one glass of wine each. The wine is so concentrated in flavor that a full 5-ounce glass would be overpowering.

Half-bottles are also appealing to restaurateurs and restaurant-goers because it allows the customer to try more types of wine during a seating. If two persons are dining together and one is having fish, the other meat, they can order two half bottles, one of white, the other red. Or if you want to try two different wines, the half bottle also solves that problem. Half bottles are also great for travelers and in Italy, you’ll often see them in train dining cars, where it is much more convenient and tidy to use smaller bottle sizes. And, of course, half bottles also solve the age-old problem of not having a dining companion: if you are dining alone, a half bottle is the perfect size, three glasses, one for each course of proper meal.

This time of year, half bottles make for perfect holiday gifts: they can be put under the tree, they can be stuffed into stockings, and best of all, they are affordable and fun. When you give someone a half bottle, it’s more of an individual gift: the recipient doesn’t have to wait for company to open the gift. It’s a gift just for them.

We just received some new half bottles: these include the single-vineyard Barolo La Rocca e La Pira 1996 from one of our favorite producers Roagna. I can’t think of a better gift than some 1996 Barolo (in case you’ve got me on your holiday gift shopping list). But we also have many other half bottles, including the traditional-style Chianti and Super Tuscan San Clemente from Travignoli; Erbaluce from Orsolani; Chianti and Super Tuscans from Carobbio. So please come down to Vino on Friday and Saturday and taste some of these wines with me. After all, who should feel guilty about opening a half bottle?
–Charles Scicolone, Wine Director, I Trulli and Vino

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Featured Gift Pack: Claret Sampler $135

This super-charged Claret sampler includes three Bordeaux-style wines from three different regions of Italy, each a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.

The San Leonardo 2000 San Leonardo is from the Alpine region of Trentino, where high altitudes and cool summer nights make for long-lived wines with rich color and intense flavors.

The Cjarandon 2002 by Ronco dei Tassi is a single-vineyard wine made from grapes grown in the hills of Friuli where the clay-rich subsoil gives the wine great structure and depth.

La Stoppa’s Stoppa 2001 is sourced from vines in the hills outside Piacenza (Emilia), where Cabernet has been grown for centuries and the hearty local cuisine pairs well with this powerfully elegant wine.

inlcudes gift boxand a note on each of the wines

ships already packed in gift box

Click here to purchase.

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Charles on TV! Well, kinda…

Vino’s Wine Director Charles Scicolone was recently featured in Men’s Vogue in an article on grappa by writer Lawrence Osborne, author of The Accidental Connoisseur.

Click here to watch a Men’s Vogue video of Charles and Lawrence as they “share a table at i Trulli… and sample a few of the better grappas available in the U.S.”

For the grappas currently available at Vino, please click here.

Vino Card Online

Wednesday, December 6th, 2006

To purchase, please click here. If you don’t see the value that you want, please send an email to giftcard@vinosite.com or call 800-965-VINO (8466).The Vino Gift Card is a pre-loaded Vino charge card and can be used for any of our more-than 500 wines, books, accessories, and stemware.

Please note that the purchaser pays no tax on the gift card.

Includes personalized greeting card.

Charles is back!!!

Vino Wine Director Charles Scicolone has returned from Puglia and Roma where he found some new wines and dined at some fantastic restaurants (some old, some new). This week, he discusses Nebbiolo from the 1996 vintage in his wine opinion (see below).

Fri. & Sat., December 8-9
Natural Whites/Negroni Gift Pack Tasting
FREE
Fri., 5:30-7:30 – Sat. 4:30-6:30 @ Vino

Back by popular demand, we will be pouring the Negroni at this week’s tastings. For more on the Negroni and our Negroni gift pack, please see the Wine Opinion below.

Charles and the staff will also be pouring wines from our Natural Whites Gift Pack.

The Natural Whites gift pack includes three wines from three of our favorite producers: Paolo Bea, the father of the “natural wine” movement; Radikon, who creates natural wines “without compromise”; and La Stoppa, who makes elegant white wine “the way wines were made long ago.”

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Wine Opinion: Negroni Memories and 10-Year-Old Nebbiolo

Last week, upon my return from Puglia, I walked into the store — unexpectedly, because they thought I was not coming in until Monday. I was greeted with a Negroni, which is made with 1 part Campari, 1 part gin, and 1 part sweet red vermouth. This is a classic Italian cocktail, which has a long history in Italy (for more on the history of the Negroni, see the Featured Gift pack below). It was interesting to have something other than wine to begin the tasting and I enjoyed sipping the cocktail. With the younger set, cocktails have become the latest thing in Italy. Some restaurants in cities like Roma and Firenze actually serve cocktails and have a “cocktail hour.” This is usually after the restaurant closes.

Many years ago, I remember drinking a Negroni in Roma with my good family friend Dr. Frank Maniscalco. He and I traveled with our families together to visit our relatives in Siacca and Nora (small towns in Sicilia). Dr. Maniscalco liked wine but he loved his Negroni. Every time we went out, most of us would order a Campari and soda or a Prosecco, but the good doctor would always order a Negroni. Dr. Maniscalco was a good twenty years older than me and he remembered drinking it from his days when he studied in Italy. Dr. Maniscalco was a good friend and quite a character. He had one glass eye and if people stared at him, he would say: “What’s the matter? You went to high school with me?” When we went to Sicilia together, no one understood Maniscalco’s Italian until we got to Sciacca, where his family came from. It was the same thing with my father. Nobody understood him until we got to Naro, where our family came from.

The Negroni was a fashionable drink in Italy during the 1910s and 20s. And of course, it was popular during the years that followed the war (when Dr. Maniscalco was a student there). When you drink a Negroni, you feel as glamorous as Marcello Mastroianni on the Via Veneto in a scene from La Dolce Vita. At least, that’s how I felt when we drank Negronis on that trip.

I picked a great day to come back to the store because not only were they pouring the Negroni, but the Vino staff was also pouring the wines from the 1996 Nebbiolo gift pack at the tasting. As you know by now, the 1996 harvest was to me a classic vintage in Barolo and Barbaresco. This was due to the fact that the weather was perfect throughout the growing and harvest season. By this, I mean, it was not too hot, nor too sunny, and there was just enough rain, which came at the right time, without any hail storms or other weather problems. This allowed the grapes to ripen very slowly and therefore perfectly. These wines have all of the Nebbiolo characteristics: leather, tar, faded roses, coffee, and, in a few cases, hints of white truffles.

The Ghemme by Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo was showing very well, very characteristic of the appellation. It was a wine that will last for many years. However, it seemed quite approachable now. Of the three wines, it was the wine most reading for drinking today.

The Barbaresco Ovello from Produttori del Barbaresco has always been one of my favorite wines. This wine needs time to develop. Another five years before I look at the wine and we’ll decide what to do. If you want to drink this wine now, open it early in the day and decant. By dinnertime, it will start to show wonderfully.

The last wine was a Barolo Massara by Castello di Verduno. This wine was showing very well, also. This is another one that should be decanted early in the day before serving. It is one of the best wines made by Castello di Verduno.

For someone who is interested Nebbiolo, this is a great three pack. It is a great introduction to Piemonte and classic Nebbiolo from a truly classic vintage.
–Charles Scicolone, Wine Director, I Trulli and Vino

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Featured Gift: The Negroni

Legend holds that the Negroni was invented by Florentine Count Camillo Negroni, who was so tired of having his Americano (Campari and Vermouth) lost in the crowd of similar cocktails that he asked a bartender to add some gin, thus making it lighter in color and easy to distinguish.

The Negroni would become the cocktail-of-choice for the Italian Futurists, the avant-garde literary and artistic movement led by Filippo Tommaso Marinetti that reshaped modernism in Europe during the 1910s and 20s.

The Negroni is made by mixing 1 part Campari, 1 part gin, and 1 part sweet vermouth. Our Negroni Gift Pack includes 1 bottle Campari, 1 bottle Plymouth Gin, and 1 bottle Punt e Mes, red vermouth.

As with all Campari drinks, tradition dictates that you garnish with a slice of orange (not lemon, which only makes the Campari more bitter).

inlcudes gift box, cocktail recipe, and a note on the drink’s origins

Click here to purchase.

Holidays with the Scicolones

Tuesday, November 14th, 2006

Upcoming Events

Thurs., November 16
Brunello di Montalcino: Fornace and Collemattoni
Meet winemakers Marcello Bucci (Collemattoni) and Fabio Giannetti (Fornace), taste and discuss their wines.
FREE Thurs., 5:30-7:30 @ Vino

Fri. & Sat., November 17-18
Holiday Wines Tasting
FREE Fri., 5:30-7:30 – Sat. 4:30-6:30 @ Vino
BUY ALL SIX WINES AND RECEIVE A 10% DISCOUNT
www.VinoSiteShop.com.

See the Tasting Notes below for more information on the sale.

To register, please email events@vinosite.com

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This Week’s Tasting: Vino Holiday Six Pack

This week’s tastings feature our Holiday Wine selection: receive 10% off this week at www.VinoSiteShop.com when you buy all six in the Vino Holiday Six Pack.

This Friday (5:30-7:30) and Saturday (4:30-6:30)
121 East 27th St.
between Park and Lex.
FREE
800-965-VINO
contact@vinosite.com

Regularly $193
$173.70 sale price (limited availability)

The Vino Holiday Gift pack includes a wine for every course in the holiday meal:

Traditional Method Sparkling Erbaluce ‘01 Orsolani (sparkling white, Piemonte) to greet your guests as they arrive…

Tocai Friulano ‘04 Ronco dei Tassi (white, Friuli) and Primitivo ‘04 Conti Zecca (red, Puglia) for antipasti…

Litina Single-Vineyard Barbera ‘03 Cascina Castle’t (red, Piemonte) for first courses…

Amarone della Valpolicella 01 Capitel Sant’Eugenio (Veneto) for the main dish and trimmings…

and Vin Santo 1994 Travignoli (Toscana) for dessert.

Ideally serves 5-6 persons (one glass of each wine per person).

CALUSO SPUMANTE 2001 ORSOLANI
$42.00

The Caluso Spumante Cuvée Tradizione is one of the most interesting Italian wines to reach North America in recent memory. Current owner Gian Luigi Orsolani’s father was the first winemaker to vinify Erbaluce as a sparkling, traditional-method wine in the late 1960s. Today, Gian Luigi is the president and founder of the assocation of Italian Producers of Sparkling Wines Made from Indigenous Grape Varieties. This traditional- or classic-method wine is double fermented in bottle like the wines of Champagne.

TOCAI FRIULANO 2004 RONCO DEI TASSI
$19.00

Owner and winemaker of Ronco dei Tassi, Fabio Coser, was so pleased with the 2004 vintage that he decided not only to make his award-winning Collio “Fosarin” (the 2006 Tre Bicchieri “White Wine of the Year”) but he also made a series of mono-varietal or single-grape wines. This Tocai Friulano, an indigenous grape of Friuli, is a classic expression of both the variety and the Collio appellation.

PRIMITIVO 2004 CONTI ZECCA
$16.00

There’s no doubt: the Primitivo grape is closely related to the famed Zinfandel grape of California. But which came first? We’ll probably never know (most agree that Primitivo probably originated in the Mediterranean and that a “related” grape was later introduced in America where it was popularized as Zinfandel). The name primitivo means literally “primitive” or “precocious” and refers to the grape’s early ripening. However long the conundrum of Zinfandel and Primitivo may endure, one thing is clear: the Conti Zecca winery, unlike many of its Californian counterparts, does not oak their Primitivo and as a result you taste the grape and not the wood.

LITINA (SINGLE-VINEYARD) BARBERA D’ASTI 2003 CASCINA CASTLE’T
$23.00

Litina was the name of winemaker Maria Borio’s great aunt, whose dowry included the vineyards in Asti where the grapes are still grown for this wine, the winery’s flagship Barbera (a small plot only 1.5 hectares in size that still bears Litina’s name). The name is also reference to the fact that women have worked and played key roles in the winery since Maria took over its operation in the 1970s. Extended aging in cask and in bottle gives this wine the qualification superiore or “superior,” denoting the increased alcohol achieved by the winemaker.

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2001 SANT’EUGENIO (GALLI)
$48.00

Arnaldo and Marta Galli of Capitel Sant’Eugenio are firm believers in terroir and tradition. For them, a wine is much more than fermented grape juice: it is a result of the land where those grapes are grown and the people who grow them. The estate-owned vineyards for their Amarone were planted in 1969 when they launched their now historic winery. They use only indigenous, naturally occurring yeasts for fermentation and they age the wine in traditional large oak barrels. Wine Director Charles Scicolone credits his discovery of Amarone “as the perfect Thanksgiving wine” to famed wine writer Sheldon Wasserman (see Charles’ Wine Opinion below).

VIN SANTO 1994 TRAVIGNOLI
$45.00

There are numerous explanations for the origin of the name vin santo or “holy wine”: some believe that a 16th-century Greek humanist who compared it to the wines of Xantos (translated erroneously into Italian as santo) when he tasted it on a visit to Florence; others believe that the name derives from the fact that the wine undergoes a “miraculous” second fermentation in the spring just as Christ rose from the tomb. One thing is certain: Vin Santo represents an entirely distinct tradition of winemaking that is unique to Toscana: while Vin Santo can now be called a passito, dried-grape wines made outside of Toscana (passiti) cannot be labeled “vin santo,” regardless of how they are made.

Limited supply!!!

Please note that this offer cannot be combined with any other offer or discount.

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Wine Opinion: Holidays at the Scicolone Residence

When I was younger, we would have Thanksgiving dinner at my grandmother’s house. My grandmother was from Palermo and would make the same meal every Thanksgiving. We would start with antipasti and then go to her baked maccheroni. This was baked in a pan like lasagne with the addition of peas. Afterward, we would have Turkey with all the trimmings and finish the meal with dessert, usually cannoli. After that, we would all sit around the table and eat nuts and raw fennel and play Italian card games. The wine at the time was simple jug wine and no one really paid much attention to it. The wine was on the table the same way that the bread was on the table: you took the wine when you wanted to and you took the bread when you wanted to.

Looking back, I miss those days with my grandmother and my thirty-or-so relatives. I miss the food but do not miss the wine.

Now, for Thanksgiving, it becomes a multi-wine affair, pairing wine with every course. The wine now has a prominent place on the table. To begin, Michele makes an appetizer consisting of crostini, olives, nuts, and fennel. This we serve with a sparkling white wine like the Orsolani Spumante that we’ll be tasting this week at Vino. The second course would, of course, be pasta: either spaghetti or ravioli. This we usually serve with a Barbera, like the Litina by Cascina Castle’t, another wine featured in this week’s tasting. If Michele does the turkey with all the trimmings (potatoes, sweet potatoes, cranberry sauce, etc. etc.), we do an Amarone. This big wine, in my opinion, stands up to all the different flavors on the table. This week at the tasting, we’ll be opening the Capitel Sant’Eugenio Amarone, a wine made in the traditional style, with no barrique whatsoever. Unfortunately or fortunately, we do not play cards anymore after dinner but we sit around eating cannoli, cantucci, and nuts, and we drink Vin Santo, which to me is the perfect end to a meal (unless one wants grappa). The 1994 Vin Santo from Travignoli that we’re pouring this Friday and Saturday is one of my favorites.

A few years ago, Michele came back from a trip to Sicilia. She had been invited to a woman’s home and the woman served turkey. What made this unusual was that the turkey was stuffed with pasta. Michele asked the woman if this was a traditional Sicilian recipe and she said, “You’re in Palermo, aren’t you?” With this, the Conti Zecca Primitivo is a very good choice, not with the turkey but with the pasta, which is eaten separately. The Amarone still goes with the turkey.

One year, many years ago, we had Thanksgiving with the late Sheldon Wasserman, an expert on Italian wine and author of the important book Italy’s Noble Red Wines (see the frontespiece pictured above right). Sheldon was the one who introduced me to the idea of Amarone with turkey. He said that it was the only wine that could really stand up to turkey with all the trimmings. Also, he said something very interesting: “If you serve the turkey alone, without all the trimmings, the Amarone is much too powerful.” Valpolicella would probably then work much better.

This year, however, I will be in Puglia during Thanksgiving with a number of journalists and wine writers. Some of them are good friends and we often spend Thanksgiving together here in New York. Maybe we will get the Italians to serve us turkey.
–Charles Scicolone, Wine Director, I Trulli and Vino

Look for Charles’ dispatches from Italy in upcoming issues of the Vino newsletter.

Charles would love to hear from you: please email him at charles@vinosite.com.

Planeta High Fashion

Tuesday, November 7th, 2006

Francesca Planeta featured in Times fashion magazine

We, the ever-fashion-conscious at Vino, were thrilled to see Francesca Planeta (pictured right) in last Sunday’s T Style Magazine “Vintage Chic” article. Her wines are as fashionable as her high style and her family’s business. To order Planeta’s ground-breaking Chardonnay (a wine that helped to put Sicilia on the map as a producer of world-class wine), click here (20% discount online only). For its worldly Merlot, please click here.

Upcoming Events at Vino

Tues., Nov. 7
Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Tasting
Winemaker Alessandro Bindocci will pour current vintages of his Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello.
FREE 5:30-7:30 p.m. @ Vino
to register, please email events@vinosite.com

Weds., Nov. 8
Grappa and Digestivi Class
Jim Hutchinson leads a demonstration on how to make infused grappas. The tasting will include grappas and digestivi.
$75 6:30 p.m. @ Vinoteca
to register, please email register@vinosite.com

Thurs., Nov. 9
Ronco dei Tassi (Friuli) Tasting
Winemaker Enrico Coser will pour current vintages of his award-winning wines.
FREE 5:30-7:30 p.m. @ Vino
to register, please email events@vinosite.com

Fri. & Sat., November 10-11
Brunello Tasting
FREE 5:30-7:30 p.m. @ Vino
The wines are available at a 10% discount all week in-store.
BUY THE WINES AT A 20% DISCOUNT ONLINE AT
www.VinoSiteShop.com.

See the Tasting Notes below for more information on the sale.

To register, please email events@vinosite.com

for information on these or any other events at Vino and/or I Trulli, please email events@vinosite.com.

Next week at Vino:
Winemakers Marcello Bucci (Collemattoni) and Fabio Giannetti (Fornace) pour their Brunello on Thurs., Nov. 16.

* * *
This Week’s Tasting: Brunello di Montalcino

This week’s tastings feature the wines of Montalcino: receive 20% off this week at www.VinoSiteShop.com or come in to the store on Fri. and/or Sat. to taste them (10% off in-store all week).

This Thursday and Friday, 5:30-7:30 p.m.
121 East 27th St.
between Park and Lex.
FREE
800-965-VINO
contact@vinosite.com

ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2003 MARTINOZZI

REGULARLY $25
$20.00 (web exclusive)

The Castelli Martinozzi estate is located in Santa Restituta at some of the highest altitudes in the appellation. The elevation allows the grapes to ripen slowly as they are cooled during the evening even as temperatures rise in summer. Proximity to the seaside created ventilation and thus reduces the risk of mildew.

Martinozzi uses no barrique (new oak) for his Rosso di Montalcino. The resulting wine is everything that a wine from Montalcino should be: earth + sun + grapes = wine.

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 1999 MARTINOZZI

REGULARLY $64
$51.20 (web exclusive)

Martinozzi uses no barrique for the aging of this wine. The wine ages in large, traditional old-oak barrels. The resulting wine is one of the best traditional-style Brunellos to come from the appellation.

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA 1995 MARTINOZZI

REGULARLY $92
$73.60 (web exclusive)

Martinozzi uses gentle oak aging for this Riserva which he only makes in superior years.

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA 1999 COLOMBINI

REGULARLY $58
$46.40 (web exclusive)

Donatella Cinelli Colombini is one of Italian wine’s most noted and notable women winemakers. From her Prime Donne literary prize to her acclaimed Brunello di Montalcino, whatever she does, she does so with style and verve. In a country where women winemakers have had to struggle to make a name for themselves, she emerged early on as a leading producer of Brunello, making a subtly modern Brunello that is greatly enjoyed on both sides of the Atlantic. She is also the founder of the ground-breaking Women of Italian Wine association.

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2000 LA FORNACE
(click here to order)

REGULARLY $60
$48.00 (web exclusive)

La Fornace is a small family-run estate in the heart of the Brunello di Montalcino appellation. The estate makes extremely limited amounts of wine using grapes grown exclusively in estate-owned vineyards. By limiting production, the winemaker can supervise every aspect of the process. The resulting wine is an artisanal product that reflects the essence of viticulture in Montalcino. The 2000 vintage for this wine was one of the highest rated in recent memory.

Limited supply!!!

Please note that these offers cannot be combined with any other offer or discount.

* * *

Wine Opinion: Only One Grappa After Dinner

Ever since I appeared in Men’s Vogue, where I was interviewed by Lawrence Osborne on Grappa, people have been asking my opinions on grappa and distillates. (The video of our conversation should be posted soon on the magazine’s website.)

Many years ago, when I first went to Italy, after lunch, they came around with the grappa cart. It was late in the afternoon and the waiter left the grappa cart and said, “Help yourself.” In the interest of research, and trying to find which were the best grappas, I, of course, tasted all of them. Going back to the hotel, Michele was laughing hysterically because I was holding on to the railing of the building (we were in Firenze at the time). The only thing that kept me upright were the walls of the building. Block after block Michele kept on whispering the same thing in my ear: “As the man told you, ‘Only one grappa after dinner.’”

I have always heeded those words since.

The Italians drink grappa as a digestivo, in other words, a drink that helps them to digest after a heavy meal. For the most part, they only drink it after dinner. Grappa is made from what is called the vinacce in Italian, what we call the pomace in English: the skins and the pulp of the fruit left over after the grapes have been pressed to make wine. This juice is distilled using the bagno maria method, in other words, a double-boiler distillation system. The one thing that one can say about grappa is that if it’s good grappa, it always tastes like grappa. Some producers age the grappa in wood for many years and this gives it a much smoother taste along the lines of cognac.

After dinner, the Italians also drink such digestivi like amaro such as Averna, Ramazzotti, Montenegro, and one of my favorites, the amaro by the famous grappa-distilling Nonino family in Friuli. The word amaro literally means “bitter”: amaros can range in flavor from semi-sweet to very, very bitter, as in the case of Fernet-Branca. Most amaros are made from herbs, spices, and “secret ingredients,” and in the case of Cynar, it is made from artichokes.

At home, many Italians “flavor” their grappas by infusing them with different types of fruits and herbs. For example, rue, cinnamon, or chamomile, or oranges, lemons, cherries, figs… The list goes on and on.

At tomorrow night’s grappa and digestivi class, Vino’s Operations Manager Jim Hutchinson (of Philadelphia) will be leading the group in infusing, tasting, and bottling grappa: this is a great holiday gift idea and, indeed, many in Italy give home-infused grappas as gifts during the holiday season.
–Charles Scicolone, Wine Director, I Trulli and Vino

To register for tomorrow night’s Grappa and Digestivi class, please email register@vinosite.com.

Look for Charles’ picture in our New York Times ad tomorrow!

Upcoming Events at Vino and I Trulli

Wednesday, November 1st, 2006

Thurs. & Fri., November 2-3
Super South Tasting
FREE 5:30-7:30 p.m. @ Vino
The wines are available at a 10% discount all week in-store.
BUY THE WINES AT A 20% DISCOUNT ONLINE AT
www.VinoSiteShop.com.

See the Tasting Notes below for more information on the sale.

Sat., Nov. 4
Naturalmente Italiano Tasting, 5 wines
FREE 4:00-6:00 p.m. @ Vino

Tues., Nov. 7
Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Tasting
Winemaker Alessandro Bindocci will pour current vintages of his Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello.
FREE 5:30-7:30 p.m. @ Vino

for information on these or any other events at Vino and/or I Trulli, please email events@vinosite.com.

Vino is located at:
121 East 27th St. between Park and Lex.
800-965-VINO
contact@vinosite.com

Tues., Nov. 7
Vertical Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Dinner
Ristorante I Trulli
SOLD OUT!!!

To be added to waiting list, please email events coordinator Jeremy Parzen at events@vinosite.com. Many of the older vintages (going back to 1978) are also available exclusively to Vino customers and are sourced directly from Il Poggione’s cellar in Sant’Angelo in Colle. If you’d like to receive a list of available wines and prices, please contact Jeremy. Sales are subject to availability.

In other news…

It’s official: on Monday Oct. 30, Ristorante I Trulli hosted a party to celebrate its new chef, Patrick Nuti (pictured top right). More than 75 persons gathered (old friends and new) to celebrate Tuscan-born Patrick who began his career many years ago in high style at the celebrated trattoria Cibreo in Florence.

Among the wines served: Cuvee Tradizione Erbaluce 2001 Orsolani (a classic-method sparkling white made from Erbaluce), Pelaverga Basadone 2004 Castello di Verduno, and the 2001 Barolo Massara also from Castello di Verduno, winner of the 2007 Tre Bicchieri award (this wine will not be available at Vino until next spring).

Also in attendance, owner Nicola Marzovilla and his sister Domenica (pictured right), and Mario Andrion, winemaker at Castello di Verduno (pictured bottom right) with his companion Giovanna, chef of the Castello di Verduno agriturismo in Verduno, Piemonte.

* * *

This Week’s Tasting: Super South

This week’s tastings feature 6 Southern Wines: receive 20% off all of these wines all week at www.VinoSiteShop.com or come in to the store on Thurs. and/or Friday to taste them (10% off in-store all week).

This Thursday and Friday, 5:30-7:30 p.m.
121 East 27th St.
between Park and Lex.
FREE
800-965-VINO
contact@vinosite.com

CHARDONNAY 2004 PLANETA
(click here to order)

REGULARLY $40
$32.00 (web exclusive)

Planeta’s 100% Chardonnay put the winery on the map when it was first released in 1994. Fermented in small French oak barrels, this wine showed that Sicilia offered an ideal environment for the production of modern-style Chardonnay: great weather and lots of sun. Today, Planeta and its Chardonnay continue to lead the Southern Italian wine revolution, producing approachable, fruit-driven wines that it offers to modern-style lovers at a reasonable price point.

TUDERI 2002 DETTORI

REGULARLY $64
$51.20 (web exclusive)

This 100% Cannonau from the Romangia zone of Northern Sardegna is sourced from 60-year-old vines on the winery’s estate and is vinified and aged in glass-lined cement vats before bottling. No new oak is used for this unusual and intensely flavored Cannonau, which is technically classified as an IGT. Although winemaker Alessandro Dettori is not a member of the Vini Veri (or “Real Wines”), many compare his approach to winemaking to the style of the “natural” wines that are beginning to emerge with ever more frequency in Italy.

IL FALCONE RISERVA 2002 RIVERA
(click here to order)

REGULARLY $34

Rivera calls this extraordinary blend of Negroamaro and Uva di Troia “Il Falcone” or “the falcon” as a nod to the thirteenth-century enlightened Sicilian King Frederick II, who enjoyed hunting with his falcon in Puglia where the grapes for this wine are sourced today. This bold red wine pairs beautifully with grills and roast meats.

NERO 2003 CONTI ZECCA

REGULARLY $38
$30.40 (web exclusive)

Sourced from top growing areas in Leverano and Salice Salentino, Conti Zecca’s Rosso del Salento is a blend of Negroamaro with smaller quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon. Negroamaro is one of the region’s most ancient red grapes. Some believe its name to mean “black bitter” (from the Italian negro and amaro) but others believe that it means “black black” from the Italian negro and the Greek maurus for black, perhaps a reference to its dark color. Although Cabernet Sauvignon has been cultivated in Puglia for more than two centuries, innovative producers like Conti Zecca have just begun to experiment with modern-style blends like this one. Their Nero has been one of the first Super Pugliese wine to emerge on the scene, receiving great praise on both sides of the Atlantic.

PIAN DEL CARRO 2001 TENUTA DEL PORTALE

REGULARLY $42
$33.60 (web exclusive)

Pian del Carro or “wagon flats” is named after the vineyard where the grapes are grown for Filena Ruppi’s top Aglianico. For this wine, she uses gentle oak aging to tame the deep tannins of this Aglianico, which is grown at one of the highest vineyards in the appellation. Aggressive pruning in the vineyards results in extremely low yields for this sure-to-be long-lived wine (Filena estimates that it will reach its peak in roughly fifteen years).

NAIMA 2003 DE CONCILIIS

REGULARLY $64
$51.20 (web exclusive)

De Conciliis’ Naima is a 100% Aglianico made from grapes grown in Cilento (in Campania). The wine under goes temperature-controlled fermentation in small French-oak barrels. The result is a gorgeously modern expression of Aglianico. The wine takes its name from the famous composition by jazz musician John Coltrane, a reflection of the family’s interest in jazz and their desire to push the envelope of winemaking tradition.

* * *

Wine Opinion: 2001 Bartolo Mascarello

The other day, our good friend and esteemed colleague, Alice Feiring, mentioned to us that she was surprised when she read that one of the world’s most popular wine magazines gave one of our favorite wines a very low score. For those of you who read my Wine Opinion every week, you know what I think of wine scores. The wine in question was the 2001 Barolo from Bartolo Mascarello. Neither Alice nor I had had a chance to taste the wine and so we asked Vino’s Marketing Director Jeremy Parzen to set up a blind tasting along with other Barolos from the same vintage that had received high scores from the publication in question as well as in other magazines. Operations Manager Jim Hutchinson decanted the wines in the afternoon and I tasted them blind and later that evening, Alice joined the Vino staff for the event. (The only person who knew which wine was which was Jim.)

For those of you who don’t know her, Alice Feiring (pictured right at the tasting) is a widely read wine writer and journalist, who’s won numerous awards for her reporting and most recently for her excellent wine blog (www.alicefeiring.com). She and I share a passion for traditional-style wines and the natural wines of Italy.

Even in off years, Bartolo Mascarello — and now his daughter Maria Teresa, who took the reins at the winery after he died last year — has made and makes a great wine. A number of years ago, I had the 1983 at a blind tasting and loved the wine so much that I was shocked to see that it was an ‘83, which was not a good year, until I saw that it was made by Bartolo Mascarello.

The highlight of this blind tasting was the 2001 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo. This wine was made in the same style of all his other wines. I met Bartolo on many occasions and discussed and tasted his wines with him. He never made a “cru” Barolo (in other words, he never made a single-vineyard wine) but rather blended his wine using grapes from different vineyards. In this way, he felt that he could get the perfect expression of Barolo. And in fact, many believe that the true Barolo is a wine made from the best-showing vineyards and not from a single vineyard. It is also well known he employed the traditional submerged cap technique during maceration, where the winemaker uses a grill to keep the cap (in other words, the surface formed by the grape skins) submerged.

One of his more famous slogans, which appeared an artist label that he had designed for his wines, was “no barrique, no Berlusconi” in reference to his feeling about new oak and the then new prime minister of Italy. Another was a play on a quote from Robespierre: “use wood for barricades not barriques.”

This is all very close to my heart because he was one of the few making wine the way wine is supposed to be made and doing a great job at it. And his daughter has continued this noble tradition — thank goodness!

The 2001 Mascarello was a classic example of what Barolo should be. It had all those flavors of mushrooms, faded roses, and tar, with hints of licorice. This is a wine that will last for many years. If you can, I would suggest buying a case: taste one bottle now and over the next few years, keep on tasting them until they are ready to drink (in my opinion, 15-20 years, even more if cellared properly). Your wait will be well rewarded.
–Charles Scicolone, Wine Director, I Trulli and Vino

Charles would love to hear from you. Please email him at charles@vinosite.com.
Click here to purchase 2001 Bartolo Mascarello.

* * *

Dolcetto di Dogliani 2004 Abbona $20

Marziano Abbona’s Dolcetto di Dogliani is named Papa Celso after his father who planted Dolcetto vines two World Wars. Today, the wines are still made from these “old vines” (the older the vine, the deeper the roots grow as they search for water in the subsoil; the resulting fruit becomes richer and richer with each passing year). Marziano often reminds us that while in Asti and Alba, the best growing sites are reserved for Nebbiolo and Barbera, in Dogliani (where this wine is made) the best sites are used exclusively for Dolcetto.

In today’s New York Times, Eric Asimov writes that Abbona’s Dolcetto di Dogliani is “Lightly tannic and well balanced with fruit and spice aromas and flavors.”*

“Typically, [Dolcetto] has bright cherry flavors that contrast with a bitter chocolate edge that comes directly from the grape rather than from an oaky varnishing. It’s a delight, but not a demanding one; light verse rather than an epic. No need to chew it over. Immediate pleasure is the goal; it doesn’t require appreciation.”

*Eric was tasting the 2003 vintage. Like the 2003, the current 2004 vintage won the Tre Bicchieri award in the Gambero Rosso Guide to the Wines of Italy.

Click here to purchase.

Barolo Week at Vino

Wednesday, October 25th, 2006

There are 6 Barolos on sale (20% off) this week (Weds.-Weds.) at www.VinoSiteShop.com. Although the wines are available at a discount all week long online, you can also come into the store and taste them for FREE on Thursday and Friday.The WINES WILL BE DISCOUNTED IN-STORE THURSDAY AND FRIDAY ONLY.

Winemaker Mario Andrion of Castello di Verduno will be on hand Friday to pour his 1998 Barolo Massara.

See the Tasting Notes below for more information on the sale.

Vertical Il Poggione Dinner, Nov. 7

Space at the Nov. 7 Vertical Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino dinner (with winemaker Alessandro Bindocci) is filling up fast: there are a few seats left. To reserve, please call or email events coordinator Jeremy Parzen at 212-679-0822 or events@vinosite.com. Many of the older vintages (going back to 1978) are also available exclusively to Vino customers and are sourced directly from Il Poggione’s cellar in Sant’Angelo in Colle. If you’d like to receive a list of available wines and prices, please contact Jeremy. Sales are subject to availability.

For more information, click here.

CARMIGNANO 1996 IS HERE!

See Charles’ Wine Opinion below or click here to purchase.

* * *

This Week’s Tasting: Barolo

This week’s tastings feature 6 Barolos: receive 20% off all of these wines all week at www.VinoSiteShop.com or come in to the store on Thurs. and/or Friday to taste them.

THE WINES WILL BE DISCOUNTED THURS. AND FRI. ONLY IN-STORE.

On Friday, winemaker Mario Andrion of Castello di Verduno will join us to pour is 1998 Barolo Massara.

Barolo Week at Vino

This Thursday and Friday, 5:30-7:30 p.m.
and all week online
121 East 27th St.
between Park and Lex.
FREE
800-965-VINO
contact@vinosite.com

Barolo Bussia 1999 Aldo Conterno

REGULARLY $76
$60.80 this week only online

Aldo Conterno has long been considered one of Barolo’s grand masters. His exquisitely elegant wines are often compared to the Grand Crus of Burgundy in terms of their terroir expression and finesse. Indeed, Aldo himself points to Burgundy as the inspiration for his style of winemaking. Bussia is one of Barolo’s greatest vineyards and Aldo Conterno has produced some of the site’s greatest vintages. This 1999 will only get better (and increase with value) as it ages. A must-have for collectors of Barolo.

Barolo Cannubi 2000 Fenocchio

REGULARLY $43
$34.40 this week only online

This single-vineyard Barolo is made by one of the appellation’s most respected producers, Giacomo Fenocchio, and is released under the De Rham label by Florentine wine impresario Barbara De Rham. Cannubi is arguably Barolo’s most famous vineyard and expression and many consider it to be the most definitive. The 2000 vintage was perhaps the warmest of the 1996-2000 string of superior harvests and thanks to the ripeness of the fruit, it is already beginning to show very well.

Barolo Massara 1998 Castello di Verduno

REGULARLY $66
$52.80 this week only online

Castello di Verduno’s Barolo Massara is sourced from one of the great “crus” or vineyards of Barolo, Massara. Locals call the site a sorì d’la matin, meaning an ideal site that benefits from sunlight in the morning. As a result of the eastern exposure, the grapes sourced from this historic vineyard cool off during the afternoon and can ripen properly even in overly hot summers. 1998 was one of a historic string of excellent vintages (1996-2001) vintages in the Langhe.

Barolo Merlotti 2000 Cavagnero

REGULARLY $49
$39.20 this week only online

Carlo Cavagnero is one of Barolo’s youngest and brightest rising stars. He makes his Barolo in the traditional style: his Merlotti (named after his estate, the Tre Merlotti or Three Blackbirds) is blended from estate-owned vineyards in La Morra, one of the appellation’s five top townships. While single-vineyard “crus” Barolos have become increasingly popular in recent years, Carlo has chosen to stick with tradition and make blended Barolo, using the best fruit from his best growing sites (the remaining fruit goes into his Nebbiolo d’Alba, which is intended for drinking young).

Barolo Pressenda 2000 Abbona

REGULARLY $47
$37.60 this week only online

A top “cru” (vineyard) of Piedmont, the Pressenda vineyard lies in the township of Monforte d’Alba where the Helvetian subsoil produces some of the most structured and long-lived wines in the world. Abbona’s bottling is made from vines planted in 1965: the older the vine, the farther the roots dig down into the soil. As a result, the soil imparts its minerality to the fruit, which in turn, gives the wine its characteristic earthy, tar flavor. Abbona made only 9,800 bottles of this hand-crafted Barolo.

Barolo Sorì Gepin 1998 Spinona

REGULARLY $40
$32.00 this week only online

La Spinona is a traditional-style producer who makes long-lived, terroir-driven Barolo. For this wine, the fruit was sourced exclusively from the Sorì Gepin, a site that enjoys perfect exposure (denoted by the dialectal term sorì) in the township of Novello (between Barolo and Monforte).

* * *

Wine Opinion: Who Says Sangiovese Can’t Age?

In 1985, I had the privilege of having Count Ugo Bonacossi and his wife at my home for dinner. This was an extraordinary event: not only because the Count and his wife were there, but also because my wife Michele was on a business trip, and I had to prepare the meal with a little help from my friends. Count Ugo is the owner of the Capezzano winery in Toscana, which, in my opinion, makes the best wine from the Carmignano appellation. For those of you who don’t know Carmignano, it is a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the province of Prato, just northwest of Firenze (Cabernet Franc is also permitted).

That night we drank a number of wines from his estate. The last wine, however, was a wine that, at the time it was produced, was not called Carmignano but rather it was called Chianti (editor’s note: the Carmignano appellation lies within the Chianti Montalbano appellation and although it has been recognized unofficially for centuries, it was not until 1975 that it acquired DOC status, DOCG in 1991). The Count poured this wine himself and then proudly announced that this was the first wine that he remembered his father making.

The year was 1925 (the wine, not the dinner!). That meant that the wine was 60 years old. As we all tasted it, we looked at each other in amazement: the wine seemed as if it were only 10 or 15 years old. Who says that Sangiovese can’t age? (There was very little Cabernet in the wine, certainly less than the winemaker uses today.) I have been drinking the Carmignano from Bonacossi since the early 1980s and it has always been one of my favorite wines because it never seems to disappoint. A few years ago, after one of our trips to Vinitaly, we stopped at the winery and they opened some vintages for us from the 1930s. In all truthfulness, some of them were showing their age and some of them were not. In 1997 the estate revamped its approach to winemaking and the winemaker began adding more Cabernet Sauvignon and using new French oak (barrique). They still make a great wine, however in the modern style.

A few weeks ago, the North American representatives for Capezzano came into Vino. We tasted some of the wines and I asked them if they had any older vintages. The rep said, yes, “We have some 1996 Riserva.” This was the last wine labeled “Riserva” and the last wine made in the old style by the winery. By coincidence, the woman who helped me cook the dinner the night that Michele was away happened to be in the store with her husband and we tasted the 1996 Riserva together and we talked about that dinner long ago. The next week, I invited them over for dinner — Michele cooked, of course — and we opened up a 1985 Carmignano Riserva to commemorate the 20 years since that dinner. It was drinking perfectly.

At Vino, I was lucky enough to obtain the very last bottles of the 1996 Carmignano Riserva. They told me how many cases that they had and I said, “We’ll take it all.” We don’t have much and many bottles have been reserved already (of course, I’ve taken some home for myself). If you’d like to buy some, please send an email to my colleague William Leonard-Lee at william@vinosite.com, and he will take care of your order personally. You can also buy the wine on our site, www.VinoSiteShop.com. For many reasons, this is a historic vintage of a historic wine.

In unrelated news, you will not be surprised to find out that I appear in the current issue of Men’s Vogue. They wanted me to pose for the cover, but unfortunately Hugh Jackman (otherwise known as the “Boy from Oz”) got the gig instead of me (see his picture, right). You can however look for my interview with Lawrence Osborne (author of The Accidental Connoisseur: An Irreverent Journey Through the Wine World) in the current issue. He and I tasted a number of grappas together. To read his article, please click here.
–Charles Scicolone, Wine Director, I Trulli and Vino

Charles would love to hear from you. Please email him at charles@vinosite.com.

Special Web Offers and Vertical Il Poggione Dinner

Wednesday, October 18th, 2006

Vertical Il Poggione Dinner, Nov. 7

Space at the Nov. 7 Vertical Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino dinner (with winemaker Alessandro Bindocci) is filling up fast: there are a few spaces left. To reserve, please call or email events coordinator Jeremy Parzen at 212-679-0822 or events@vinosite.com. Many of the older vintages (going back to 1978) are also available exclusively to Vino customers and are sourced directly from Il Poggione’s cellar in Sant’Angelo in Colle. If you’d like to receive a list of available wines and prices, please contact Jeremy. Sales are subject to availability.

Vertical Dinner featuring
Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino

with winemaker Alessandro Bindocci
Tuesday, November 7, 8:00 p.m.
Ristorante I Trulli

For more information, click here.

In other news…

Many of your favorite wines are now available at a 20% discount online at www.VinoSiteShop.com.

Subject to availability.

As advertised in the New York Times Dining In section, each week we will be featuring some of our most popular and collectible wines at a 20% discount exclusively on the web. This week’s sale wines include Naima 2003 from De Conciliis, a modern-style Aglianico inspired by the John Coltrane composition, and Monchiero Barolo Rocche 2000, a top-rated vintage and a single-vineyard Barolo from a one of our favorite “traditionalist” producers in the Langhe. To read more about these and other sale wines, click here.

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This Week’s Tasting: Current Wines from Tre Bicchieri Winner (Piemonte)

This Thursday and Friday, 5:30-7:30 p.m.
121 East 27th St.
between Park and Lex.
FREE
800-965-VINO
contact@vinosite.com

Vareij 2004 Hilberg
(click here to order)

Hilberg’s Vareij is a highly unusual wine made from a blend of Barbera and Brachetto (the latter is almost exclusively vinified as a sparkling, sweet dessert wine). The name Vareij literally means “varied” in Piedmontese dialect and is inspired by the fact that no one on record has blended these two grapes together. The wine has a wonderful lightness (from the Brachetto) but good acid and mouthfeel from the Barbera. Hilberg has won the Tre Bicchieri award repeatedly for its Nebbiolo d’Alba, available by special order only.

Dolcetto di Dogliani Papa Celso 2003 Abbona
(click here to order)

Marziano Abbona’s Dolcetto di Dogliani is named Papa Celso after his father who planted their Dolcetto vines between the two world wars when Marziano was just a child. This Dolcetto is still made from grapes grown on these 60-year-old vines. Marziano often reminds us that while in Asti and Alba, the best growing sites are reserved for Nebbiolo and Barbera, in Dogliani (where this wine is made) the best sites are used exclusively for Dolcetto. Abbona won the Tre Bicchieri award for its Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore Papa Celso 2005.

Barbaresco 2002 Produttori del Barbaresco
(click here to order)

In 2002, legendary winemaker Aldo Vacca of the Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative decided not to make his cru wines. Instead, he used his very best fruit to make his traditionally blended Barbaresco. This wine represents one of those rare occasions when the winemaker opts to use his top grapes for his blended Barbaresco. This is drinking beautifully and will only get better with age. A great way to approach Barbaresco for the newcomer. Produttori del Barbaresco won the Tre Bicchieri for its Barbaresco Riserva Paje 2001 and its Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo 2001.

Barolo Massara 1998 Castello di Verduno
(click here to order)

Castello di Verduno’s Barolo Massara is sourced from one of the great “crus” or vineyards of Barolo, Massara. Locals call the site a sori d’la matin, meaning an ideal site that benefits from sunlight in the morning. As a result of the eastern exposure, the grapes sourced from this historic vineyard cool off during the afternoon and can ripen properly even in overly hot summers. 1998 was one of a historic string of excellent vintages (1996-2001) vintages in the Langhe. Castello di Verduno won the Tre Bicchieri for the 2001 Barolo Massara.

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Wine Opinion: What Makes a Tre Bicchieri Wine

For those of you who have followed Vino and my wine opinions closely, you know that I — and we — are not particularly fond of wine ratings and scores. I’ll leave to the imagination the publications and persons to whom I am referring when I write this.

However, for many years now, one of the leading, if not the top, wine publications in Italy has been the Gambero Rosso Guida ai Vini d’Italia or “Guide to Italian Wines.” The guide is released every year in Italy around this time. The English edition isn’t published until March-April of the following year. But, because here at Vino, we not only drink Italian, we also speak and read Italian, we rush out to read the evaluations and to see the ratings.

For those of you who know the guide, you know that they do not “score” the wines as many of our illustrious colleagues do. Instead, they have devised a highly poetic rating system that we at Vino — myself and staff included — find to be of great interest and appropriate to the nature of tasting and sharing wine.

Last year, at the presentation of the guide in New York, when our friend Enrico Coser received the award for Best White of the Year (for his Collio Fosarin), the guide’s editor-in-chief Daniele Cernili explained his now famous “Three Glass” system as follows.

He explained that a bottle of wine contains six glasses. Since you should never drink a bottle of wine alone, this means that you and your companion can each have 3 glasses. According to his theory, if you and your friend kind of like the wine, you’ll have one glass each. If you like it, you might have two glasses. But if you really like it, you’ll finish the whole bottle and thus you’ll each drink three glasses of wine. These wines, he says, are “Tre Bicchieri” wines or “Three Glass” wines, the highest ranking that the guide bestows each year.

Every year, only a handful of wines from each region of Italy receive this prestigious honor. For the next few weeks, we will be featuring labels from some of our favorite wineries that have again received the award (although we won’t be receiving the wines themselves until the spring because they have been released in Italy only recently).

At this week’s tasting, I will be pouring wines from Piedmontese producers who have once again received the Tre Bicchieri award.
–Charles Scicolone, Wine Director, I Trulli and Vino

Charles would love to hear from you. Please email him at charles@vinosite.com.