In 1979 The New Yorker ran an advertisement claiming that “9 out of every 10,000 Americans prefer Campari” — an amusing jibe alluding to the popular Italian liqueur’s relative obscurity in this country. Today Campari remains something of an acquired taste, but signs are that that “statistic” could finally be changing. No longer just the tipple of choice for European cognoscenti and dolce vita-seeking italophiles, Campari has recently enjoyed a surge in U.S. consumption, thanks in part to its growing presence in popular culture. In the last few years the drink has made numerous appearances in movies and music videos, while memorable ads, savvy cross-marketing and some of the sexiest stars of the screen have helped repropose Campari as a fun, sophisticated product for a new generation.

Vintage Campari posters by Marcello Durovich (1920), Fortunato Depero (1933) and Aldo Catti (1951).

Of course, Campari is nothing new. In Italy, where it remains perhaps the most iconic and best-loved drink, it has never been out of style, and in 2010 celebrated its 150th anniversary. This bitter and aromatic liqueur — obtained from the infusion of herbs, plants and fruit in alcohol and water — was invented in 1860 by Gaspare Campari in the Piedmontese town of Novara. However, the drink became closely associated with Milan, where Gaspare and family moved soon afterwards to open the Caffe Campari (now Bar Zucca) in the city’s elegant Galleria Vittorio Emmaneule II. The rapid success of Campari — both the drink and the caffè — launched numerous imitators and helped establish the now time-worn custom of the aperitivo. In 1904, the first production plant was opened in Sesto San Giovanni, where under the direction of Gaspare’s son, Davide (whose name still appears on the bottle), the company began to export the brand. Today Campari epitomizes Italian style in over 190 countries.

“Campari”, Bruno Munari, 1965. The Museum of Modern Art, New York.

Yet despite its worldwide fame, mystery continues to surround Campari. Though certainly containing quinine and other bitter herbs, rhubarb, spices, ginseng, bergamot oil, and orange peel, estimates as to the number of ingredients can vary wildly from 20 to 60. Campari’s distinctive crimson color comes from cochineal dye, which is derived from the dactylopius coccus insect, although in some countries this ingredient has been replaced by artificial colorant. The chairman of Gruppo Campari, Luca Garavoglia, is believed to be the only person in the world who knows the precise and closely-guarded formula for the original family recipe.

Campari ads from the ’80s, ’90s and ’00s.

An essential ingredient in many classic cocktails, Campari is often mixed with red vermouth and soda to make Americano, one of Italy’s favorite aperitivi which we’ll be making at Vino this Thursday. Campari is also produced  pre-mixed with soda water as a single-serve product called Camparisoda. Introduced in 1932 as the first pre-bottled cocktail, its distinctive embossed glass bottle was designed by the Futurist artist Fortunato Depero, and remains unchanged to this day. Italians order Camparisoda at the bar or buy it in 10-packs at the supermarket. Sadly, these are extremely hard to come by in the U.S., but if you are interested in the bottle design, check out Raffaele Celentano’s lamps for Ingo Maurer above the bar at I Trulli.

To mark its 150 years, Campari enlisted three contemporary international artists to design commemorative labels for the Campari Art Label Project, a collaborative initiative highlighting the long-standing relationship between the brand and the world of art and design. These bottles are available now in limited quantities at Vino: get yours today and become the tenth proud American in every 10,000 who prefers Campari.

Campari (750ml)
$26

For more information please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.