A name can be deceiving. For example, if you’ve never tasted “sweetbreads” before, it may be helpful to know that they are neither sweet nor bread, and in fact have little at all to do with such sugary confections. Wine can also have a tendency to slightly confuse. Take the improbably-named Bodegas Juan Gil “Wrongo Dongo” Jumilla Monastrell 2008. When Bodegas Juan Gil decided to attach a funny title and quirky label to their wine, they certainly weren’t the first to engage in this type of bottle marketing. They say never judge a book by its cover, but indeed, names and labels have been shown to have a potential influential effect on the bottom line.

But does this make “Wrongo Dongo” the “wrong” choice? Do not be deceived. Their 100% Monastrell (Mourvèdre) from the arid Jumilla region of south eastern Spain is worthy of consideration beyond its label. The Juan Gil winery has been in the family for four generations, specializing in what is one of Spain’s more exotic native grapes. Situated 700 meters above sea level, the fruit grows at high daytime temperatures and cools down by as much as 77°F at night, promoting the heavy ripening needed while slowing down its natural vigor. The wine, jumping with ripe blackberry fruit and aromatic herbs is remarkably balanced despite its raised alcohol level (15%).

And at $11 a bottle, we at Vino find it particularly appealing, no matter what is written on the label. For a wine with a silly name, “Wrong Dongo” exhibits all the right stuff.

Bodegas Juan Gil “Wrongo Dongo” Jumilla Monastrell 2008
$11

For more information and please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.

Have you ever met somebody who you swear one day would hit the big time?  Think you’d see them appear on that super star discovery show? No, not Idol or “This Place” Got Talent… the real super star discovery show. That’s how we felt when I was first introduced to Bobal, the hidden gem from Spain’s south-eastern Valencia region.

Known mostly as a native workhorse that produces loads of juice concentrate and fills up blends for a color boost, this third most planted Spanish variety is finally beginning to forge an identity as a grape worthy of savoring. Documents show that The Utiel-Requena appellation has hosted Bobal since the 15th Century. By adapting to the extremes of the local climate this vigorous grape has made itself uniquely at home here. It is bold and rich in character, but unlike other important Spanish varietals like Monastrell, it retains acidity and is not exceptionally high in alcohol.  For careful winemakers who employ the fruit of older vines, they are discovering its great potential to produce powerful wines of complexity and longevity.

Vera de Estenas is one such producer. Founded by the Martinez family in the 1940s, they hand harvest their Bobal from low yield vines up to 100 years of age. Current third generation winemaker Felix Martinez Roda matures the wine in tank and French barriques, allowing its intensity to broaden, giving us deep complex fruit with balanced structure. It’s the kind of profile that makes one wonder “Where have you been?” Although they already know where it has been, more and more producers from the region are determined to be a part of where it is going. From where we’re standing, that looks like the Stars, baby!

Vera de Estenas Bobal 2008 $13

Photos courtesy of Vera de Estenas.

For more information please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.