Don’t get the “wrong” idea… Jumilla Monastrell “Wrongo Dongo”

Monday, September 6th, 2010

A name can be deceiving. For example, if you’ve never tasted “sweetbreads” before, it may be helpful to know that they are neither sweet nor bread, and in fact have little at all to do with such sugary confections. Wine can also have a tendency to slightly confuse. Take the improbably-named Bodegas Juan Gil “Wrongo Dongo” Jumilla Monastrell 2008. When Bodegas Juan Gil decided to attach a funny title and quirky label to their wine, they certainly weren’t the first to engage in this type of bottle marketing. They say never judge a book by its cover, but indeed, names and labels have been shown to have a potential influential effect on the bottom line.

But does this make “Wrongo Dongo” the “wrong” choice? Do not be deceived. Their 100% Monastrell (Mourvèdre) from the arid Jumilla region of south eastern Spain is worthy of consideration beyond its label. The Juan Gil winery has been in the family for four generations, specializing in what is one of Spain’s more exotic native grapes. Situated 700 meters above sea level, the fruit grows at high daytime temperatures and cools down by as much as 77°F at night, promoting the heavy ripening needed while slowing down its natural vigor. The wine, jumping with ripe blackberry fruit and aromatic herbs is remarkably balanced despite its raised alcohol level (15%).

And at $11 a bottle, we at Vino find it particularly appealing, no matter what is written on the label. For a wine with a silly name, “Wrong Dongo” exhibits all the right stuff.

Bodegas Juan Gil “Wrongo Dongo” Jumilla Monastrell 2008
$11

For more information and please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.

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Wine that’s a mouthful: Georkapolous Malagouzia

Friday, September 3rd, 2010


Wine is its own language, and sometimes it happens to be Greek. This can be frightening given its profusion of syllables (to be fair, German pronunciation has its own obstacles; the word trockenbeerenauslese comes to mind). Still, if one can subvert their phobia of foreign languages, Greek wine affords an abundance of pleasure at a price that reflects the populace’s aversion to saying words they can’t pronounce. Georgakopoulos Estate Malagouzia 2008 happens to be exactly this type of wine: a white that’s full on flavor and distinctiveness yet greatly undervalued.

The family-run Georgakopoulos Estate was founded in 2000 in the area of Mendenitsa in central Greece. Located 7.5 miles from the sea, the village is home to the remains of a beautiful medieval castle. The rolling hills are situated at altitude of 450-600 m (1300-1900 ft) and provide the perfect aspect for ripening the international and indigenous grape varieties grown on the property.

Malagouzia (or Malagousia, depending on who you ask) is a rare Greek grape variety that had almost gone extinct in the mid-20th century. Had it not been for the work of winemaker Vangelis Gerovassiliou and viticulturalist Vassilis Logothetis, the grape would have surely been lost as would the wonderful wines its capable of producing. Vino’s unscientific estimate places the number of estates that cultivate this obscure but delicious wine at less than two dozen. So what’s it taste like? Imagine Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier had a baby. It’s unoaked, ripe and lush. It is a wine a that is every bit as much about texture and weight as flavor.

As you’d expect, you won’t find this wine everywhere. There’s even a dearth of information about it online. Of course, Georgakopoulos Estate does have its own Facebook page. And the good news is that it’s in English.

Georgakopolous Estate Malagouzia 2008
$16

For more information and please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.

Calling all Gibson Girls

Thursday, September 2nd, 2010

Back by popular demand, Vino will be pouring Gibsons next Thursday. A variation on the classic Martini, this American favorite was named after the illustrator Charles Dana Gibson. According to popular legend, Gibson — a teetotaller — would ask barmen to place a pickled onion in cold water so he could pick his drink out from other gin-based martinis. Another story recalls how Gibson challenged the bartender at the Player’s Club in New York to improve upon the original Martini; the bartender simply replaced the existing olive with an onion.

Gibson married Irene Langhorne, whose sister Nancy Astor was the first woman to serve as a member of parliament in the British House of Commons. The elegant Langhorne sisters, born to a once-wealthy Virginia family devastated by the Civil War, are said to have been Gibson’s inspiration for the Gibson Girls. These images of an American feminine ideal, as portrayed in Gibson’s satirical pen and ink stories, became a new national standard for female beauty and independence in the early twentieth-century.

If you’re a latter-day Gibson Girl (or if you know one you can bring along) join us next Thursday!

GIBSON COCKTAIL HOUR
Thursday, September 9
5:30-7:30pm
FREE

Tasting is free; no reservation required. For more information please contact 212-725-6516 or info@vinosite.com.

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Back to school: classes return for Fall

Wednesday, September 1st, 2010

It may still be pushing the high-nineties in New York, but believe it or not Fall is almost upon us! Vino’s wine and spirit classes return this September with a fresh autumnal schedule. Our selection has gone international and so have our classes: this semester’s tasting seminars are a reflection of our expanding blend of world-class wines and spirits from around the globe. But we’re starting things off with a return to our roots, as next Tuesday we present The Wines of Italy!

Before embarking on our international expansion earlier this year, we spent the best part of a decade dealing in Italian wine. All that tasting, talking and, uh, tasting some more, had to pay off in the end: the result is The Wines of Italy. Hosted by Vino’s resident Italian wine maven Jim Hutchinson, this intrepid tour of the peninsula will take in Italy’s vast mosaic of appellations, countless grape varieties, and myriad countless winemaking styles. Participants will be treated to an exclusive tasting representative of Italian wine’s remarkable quality and diversity, and learn more about the ever-shifting landscape of Italy’s richly entertaining winemaking culture.

THE WINES OF ITALY
with Jim Hutchinson, DWS
Tuesday, September 7
6:30-8:30pm
$45

For more information and reservations please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.


We’re Old Fashioned

Saturday, August 28th, 2010

At Vino we love modern technology — without it you wouldn’t be reading this. But in this app-tacular age of tweetations and blogorama, conversely the nostalgia industry continues to grow, particularly within the sector of bars and bartending. But as we prove every week, you don’t need to pull on suspenders and wax your mustache in order to make a proper cocktail. The world has changed irrevocably enough even in our own lifetimes (heck, even Friends is already looking dated). You’ll probably remember a time when the blackberry was a woodland fruit, when birds tweeted but people still spoke to one another and when you had to go to the trouble of actually memorizing your girlfriend’s phone number if you wanted to call her up. So if you miss the clink of a subway token or the crackle of a needle on shellac, this week’s Cocktail Hour is for you. Leave the iPhone at home (we dare you) and join us this Thursday as we make Old Fashioned cocktails the old fashioned way. (There’s no app for that.) And remember: “This year’s fancies/Are just passing fancies…”

Cocktail Hour
OLD FASHIONED
Thursday, September 2
5:30-7:30pm

Tasting is free, no reservation required. For more information please contact 212-725-6526 or email info@vinosite.com.

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From You Were Never Lovelier (Columbia Pictures, 1942). Wow, Rita Hayworth sure pops up a lot on this blog! She’s effectively the official mascot of Vino’s Cocktail Hour!

Sancerre: an original standard

Friday, August 27th, 2010

There is perhaps no other grape out there that defines varietal recognition more than Sauvignon Blanc.  Its unmistakable aromatic clarity and zesty acidity have made it a popular choice in all corners of the globe. While regions from the north of Italy to California to New Zealand can boast wonderful expressions of Sauvignon Blanc, it is sometimes nice to fall back on an original standard. Lucien Crochet “Le Chêne” Sancerre 2007 brings out the essence of what you can rarely find anywhere else but in the villages surrounding the town of Sancerre in France’s Loire Valley. Its smoky minerality and bracing acidity remind us of how the marriage of grape and terroir can reach a singularity of focus and excellence.


Lucien and his son Gilles run an operation centered in the town of Bué that has been in the family for centuries. They hand harvest the grapes from the famed limestone hills of the “Clos du Chene Marchand” at very low yields and allow 6 months of yeast contact in stainless steel before filtering and fining.  Malolactic fermentation is always omitted in order for the wine to keep its racy finish intact. The result is an intense display of green fruit, chalky minerality and mouth watering finish; the archetype of pure Sancerre.

With less than 1700 cases of “Le Chêne” produced each year, we think it is certainly worth picking up a bottle of this true classic.

Lucien Crochet “Le Chêne” Sancerre 2007
$32

For more information please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.

Mammoth Tasting, next Friday

Thursday, August 26th, 2010

Our monthly tasting blow-out returns next week, and this time we’re getting cozy with some not-quite prehistoric selections. Since the dawn of time (well, almost) man has sought good wine to bring back to his cave dwelling (or swanky Manhattan pad). With that in mind we’ve spent what sometimes feels like a billion years roaming the Earth in search of the best this planet has to offer, without rummaging among those fossilized vintages. They may not be quite endangered species, but you should still hurry up and get them before they’re gone forever! Stay tuned for more information on featured wines…

MAMMOTH TASTING
Friday, September 3
5:30-7:30pm
FREE

Tasting is free, no reservation required. For more information please contact 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.

Ubiquitous and utterly unrelated YouTube clips:

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This video was embedded using the YouTuber plugin by Roy Tanck. Adobe Flash Player is required to view the video.

Crazy for Clairette

Wednesday, August 25th, 2010

Clairette Blanc is a white grape from the South of France that has been in continued decline. Used mostly as a blending grape in the regions of Languedoc and Provence, it finds itself susceptible to many issues that dog the winemaker. Then why are we at Vino so crazy about Château de Roquefort Clairette 2009?

Raimond de Villeneuve (left) takes great care to bring this lesser-loved variety to life by planting his vines at a 1000-foot altitude, allowing for a longer ripening season. By doing this, the wine retains acidity and freshness while having time to develop complexities that it normally would not. He also uses all natural methods in the vineyard, tending to vines that range from 15 to over 40 years old.

The result is a dry white wine that expresses balance and elegance, a far cry from any other 100% Clairette whose path you may cross. Try some while the summer is still here: it may make you crazy too!

Château de Roquefort Clairette 2009
$17

For more information please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.

The wines of Roquefort are well in keeping with the temperament of its owner. For these are not “serious” wines. They are wines for people who seriously love to drink wine – not for sipping, sniffing and hours of “umming and ahhring”. True they possess the structure, content and balance of “serious” wines, but above all the word pleasure comes to mind. These are wines one just cannot get enough of. And so on… let’s open a bottle. Hurry up, I’m thirsty.

–Tim Johnston, Juveniles, Paris

Triple Red Tasting — this Friday!

Tuesday, August 24th, 2010

Join us this Friday when Giuseppe Monastra of Winebow will be pouring a triptych of great wines, each a portrait of red: Clos la Coutale from Cahors, Château Montfaucon from the Rhone and Chasing Lions from Napa Valley.

Triple Red Tasting
with Giuseppe Monastra from Winebow
Friday, August 27
5:30-7:30pm
FREE


For more information please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com. DISCLAIMER: The gentleman in the above photograph is Mark Rothko, not Giuseppe Monastra.

Cesanese: Ciociaria’s greatest grape

Monday, August 23rd, 2010

You will find Paolo Perinelli’s sprawling estate as you travel southeast from Rome and into the foothills of the Appenines. The family-run farm sits at about 1200 ft asl on the outskirts of Acuto, a village in the heart of the Ciociaria, an area famous for its wine and olive oil. Paolo tends the highly-regarded local variety Cesanese d’Affile on a beautiful property called Casale della Ioria, that also produces olives, stone fruit and livestock. For over twenty years he has managed all aspects of his operation.

Perinelli’s approach to winemaking is based on rigorous vineyard management and a low-intervention protocol in the cellar that emphasizes cleanliness and carefully monitored fermentation. His methods reveal a great appreciation for Cesanese’s true varietal character with all labels exhibiting zesty acidity and aromas of cherries and herbs tinged with a slightly acrid smokiness. His use of wood in aging is judicious and includes a variety of barrel sizes and types of oak, very little new.

We carry all three of Paolo’s Cesanese labels:

Campo Novo 2007
$17

Campo Novo is made in a youthful style that highlights the vibrant cherry fruit character that is typical of Cesanese. Paolo selects fruit from his youngest vines and vinifies with a short maceration and ageing entirely in stainless steel.

Cesanese del Piglio 2007
$24

Cesanese del Piglio is made of grapes harvested from 35-year-old vines. Both Cesanese d’Affile and Cesanese Commune are used. The wine is aged in large Slavonian oak botti for up to 12 months.

Torre del Piano 2007
$42

Torre del Piano is made of grapes rigorously selected from the property’s best and oldest vines. It undergoes a lengthy maceration and fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel and is aged in French barriques, 50% new, for 12 months.

Ciociaria is a politically undefined area between Rome and Naples centering around the province of Frosinone in Lazio. (Vino also carries a digestivo, Amaro Ciociaro from the area.) Its name is derived from “ciocie”, primitive sandals worn by sheep and cattle herders in the Central Appenines.  Italian actor Marcello Mastroianni was born in the area, while actor/director Vittorio De Sica and poet/writer/director Pier Paolo Pasolini lived and worked there. Indeed, De Sica’s 1960 movie La Ciociaria adapted from the Alberto Moravia novel of the same name (but released as Two Women in the U.S.), starred Sophia Loren as a widowed Roman shopkeeper trying to protect her teenage daughter during World War II. Loren’s performance earned her an Academy Award, the first time an acting Oscar had been given for a non-English speaking role.

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For more information please call 212-725-6516 or email info@vinosite.com.