VINO

The Weekly Word of Vino, Italian Wine & Spirits

 

In This Issue:

August 23, 2006 

 

 

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Charles Featured in New York Times

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Wine Opinion: De Gustibus Disputandum... est!!!

 

 

 

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Wine Tastings: Celebrate Charles' Birthday

 

 

 

 

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Fall 2006 Class Schedule

 

 

 

 

 

Charles Featured in New York Times

 

Vino's Wine Director Charles' Scicolone featured in New York Times Tasting Panel

Charles Scicolone was recently asked to participate in a New York Times tasting panel where he and other participants rated twenty-five bottlings of Pinot Grigio.

"Pinot Grigio is often misunderstood," said Charles, "and so I was glad that the Times is taking it seriously and honored to be part of the tasting panel."

Times food columnist Florence Fabricant and wine writer Eric Asimov also participated in the tasting.

As Eric points out in his piece, Pinot Grigio can be a wonderfully approachable and affordable wine, great for summer months when we all crave refreshing, bright white wines that pair well with spicier foods.

Charles and the Vino staff have hand-selected the following three bottlings of Friulian Pinot Grigio (each of which is available on our new e-commerce site):

Pinot Grigio 2004 Ascevi
(click here to order)

Pinot Grigio 2005 La Di Motte
(click here to order)

and

Pinot Grigio 2004 Orgnani
(click here to order)

Charles' Birthday Wines

In other news, Charles is celebrating his birthday this week by pouring five of his favorite wines at this week's wine tastings (Thursday and Friday, 5:30-7:30).

Don't miss this opportunity to sample his selections and discuss them with him.

For descriptions of the wines and Charles' weekly Wine Opinion, please see below.

Remember: the tastings are free.

New Wines Added to Vinositeshop.com

Our new e-commerce site www.vinositeshop.com is now live and we've already added a number of new wines, including the wines featured in this week's tasting (see below).

For Manhattan customers, delivery is free for orders over $100 ($5 for orders under $100) and expedited shipping is available for outer-borough and out-of-state orders.

To shop and browse our wines online, click here.

 

Wine Tastings: Celebrate Charles' Birthday

 

This Thursday and Friday, August 24-25, 5:30-7:30 p.m.

Pelaverga Basadone 2004 Castello di Verduno
(click here to order)

The tiny Verduno or Verduno Pelaverga appellation is perhaps Italy's smallest: the wine is made from the rare Pelaverga grape exclusively in the hamlet of Verduno. Spicy and aromatic, locals believe that this excellent food-pairing possesses aphrodisiacal properties, hence the name Basadone or baciadonne in Italian, the "lady kisser."

Le Muraglie 2001 Ezio Voyat
(click here to order)

The Ezio Voyat winery is one of Italy's most respected winemakers and its wines reflect the elegant winemaking tradition of the township Chambave in the Valle d'Aosta (where French and Italian are spoken). His Le Muraglie, named after the muraglie or medieval walls of Chambave, is a blend of Petit Rouge, Dolcetto, and Gros Wein, grape varieties central to the valdostana blending style. This wine pairs well with the classic wintery dishes of the region (fondues and venison, for example) but has a lightness and bright acidity that marry with a variety of cuisines.

Ghemme Collis Carellae 1996 Cantalupo
(click here to order)

The Ghemme appellation is found in the province of Novara just east to its more celebrated cousins Barolo and Barbaresco. Although lesser known than those famously long-lived wines, Ghemme (also made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes) shows remarkable aging potential. As in the Langhe (where Barolo and Barbaresco are made), cooler temperatures combined with mild weather made 1996 one of the greatest vintages of the last century.Carella is one of Ghemme's historic crus. The name comes from the ancient Latin carellaedunum, literally "wagon heights" (hence the name Collis Carellae in late Latin or "wagon hill"). Excavations near the vineyards have revealed artifacts dating to the Neolithic era, a testament to pre-Roman civilization there.

Taurasi Radici 1995 Mastroberardino
(click here to order)

Charles often cites Mastroberardino as one of his favorite wineries. As he has noted in previous installments of his wine opinion, Mastroberardino's Taurasi has remarkable aging potential and while this 1995 is drinking very well right now, it still has many years ahead of it. The Taurasi appellation was practically invented by Mastroberardino, who has been making wine in Campania since the sixteenth-century. Taurasi is made from 100% Aglianico grapes sourced from the estate's top vineyards. In the 1990s, the winery began producing the wine with the Radici or "roots" label, a homage to this winemaker's belief that a traditional approach (long maceration and no barrique) makes for wines that will age gracefully. The 1995 harvest was a fantastic vintage for the appellation.

Vecchia Annata 1982 Villa di Vetrice
(click here to order)

This Vecchia Annata or "old vintage" bottling by Villa di Vetrice is barrel-aged in large oak botti before its release. The Grati family used to sell the wine only locally until Vino's wine director Charles Scicolone and Nicola Marzovilla tasted it at the winery during a now legendary luncheon of bistecca fiorentina (Tuscan porterhouse steak) served with green sauce (a heated debate ensued as to whether green sauce is the appropriate accompaniment). Wine ages best in large vessels: the secret behind this wine's longevity is the large-barrel aging. This 100% Sangiovese (essentially a declassified Chianti Rufina) is rich on the nose and remarkably fresh in the mouth. If you like old wine, this juice will not disappoint you.

Click here to browse and shop our wines online.

 

Fall 2006 Class Schedule

 

All classes last approximately 2 hours.

To register, please send an email to register@vinosite.com.

Please be sure to include the following information:

* Class and Date.

* Names and Number of Persons Attending.

* Billing information including 1) name as it appears on the card 2) card number 3) expiration date and 4) billing address and phone number.

* Day and nighttime phone number.

All reservations will be confirmed via email.

Due to limited availability, all reservations are final and no refunds or exchanges are allowed.

Italian Wine 101
Wednesday, September 27, 6:30 p.m. ($55)


Wine educator Robert Scibelli, DWS, gives a command performance with his popular Introduction to Italian Wine course. Participants will sample wines from different regions of Italy, learn how wine is made, and explore Italy's wonderful range of winemaking styles and traditions.

A specialist in Italian wine, Robert Scibelli currently serves as the National Development Coordinator of the International Wine Center in Manhattan where he also lectures on a wide range of wine-related subjects.

The Killer B's: Barolo, Barbaresco, and Brunello
Wednesday, October 4, 6:30 p.m. ($95)


No, it's not an Alfred Hitchcock movie: Wine Director of Vino and I Trulli, Charles Scicolone, guides course-participants through a tasting of Italy's most sought-after and collectible appellations, Brunello di Montalcino, Barbaresco, and Barolo, including single-vineyard and blended wines from some of Toscana's and Piemonte's most famous producers. This seminar is a must for both connoisseurs and neophyte collectors of Italian wine.

Charles and I Trulli have been nominated for outstanding wine service and wine list for five years running by the James Beard Awards. Charles coordinated wines for the Italian-themed Year 2000 James Beard Awards. He has lectured on Italian wines for the Italy America Chamber of Commerce, the Agricultural Ministry of the Region of Sicily, La Cucina Italiana, The Italian Trade Commission and The Smithsonian Institute. Recently, Charles worked as a consultant for Waterford Crystal on their new line of stemware. He has appeared on national television on Emeril Live!, In Food Today, Ciao Italia, and Cooking Live and has been a guest on The Arthur Schwartz Show and was a weekly wine commentator on The Bea Lewis Show on radio. Charles is a member of the Wine Media Guild.

Pizza, Any Way You Slice It
Saturday, October 14, 1:30 p.m. ($85)


Charles Scicolone (see bio above) teams up with his wife, celebrated cookbook author Michele Scicolone, to teach this ever-popular course on pizza based on their best-selling and definitive work on the subject, Pizza, Any Way You Slice It. With Ristorante I Trulli as the backdrop, Michele and Charles lead this hands-on seminar where participants learn how to make true Neapolitan pizza dough, experiment with traditional and fusion toppings, and sample wines that pair well with pizza.

Michele Scicolone is a cookbook author and writer who specializes in food, wine and travel. Her Mastering Pasta, Noodles and Dumplings was published by Williams Sonoma/Free Press in October, 2005. Her 1,000 Italian Recipes, was nominated for a 2004 James Beard Award and was a main selection of The Good Cook book club. She is also the author of The Sopranos Family Cookbook and Entertaining with the Sopranos, cookbooks based on the popular television show. Michele's writing appears regularly in Bon Appetit, Wine Spectator, The Los Angeles Times, The Washington Post, The New York Times, Gourmet, Food Arts, and many others.

Noble Nebbiolo
Wednesday, October 18, 6:30 p.m. ($85)


Many believe that the word Nebbiolo comes from the Latin nebula or "cloud": the famous fog of Piemonte helps to keep the grapes cool as they ripen to perfection in the late summer/early fall. While the Nebbiolo grown in the Langhe hills is used to make the most notable expressions, Barolo and Barbaresco, Nebbiolo is also used to make Piemontese appellations Carema (in Carema) and Ghemme (in Novara) among others, as well as Valtellina in Lombardia (where it is used to make dried-grape Sfurzat or Sforzato) and the Valle d'Aosta. Participants in the Noble Nebbiolo seminar will sample a variety of Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo-based wines as they explore a wide range of winemaking styles and techniques. Wine director Charles Scicolone leads the guided tasting and comments on the many different Nebbiolo clones, aging potential, tasting profile, and the similarities and differences between the Nebbiolo grown in the Langhe and that cultivated in other parts of Italy.

Vintage Italian
Wednesday, October 25, 6:30 p.m. ($95)


Old wine is a topic dear to Wine Director Charles Scicolone's heart: there is perhaps no other subject that inspires him to wax poetic than a tasting of vintage Italian. Especially today, wine lovers are tempted -- by producers and wine sellers -- to drink open bottles young. In his Vintage Italian seminar, Charles leads participants through a guided tasting of young and old wines as he discusses what to look for in young wines in order to assess their longevity and reveals how wine and tasting profiles evolve (e.g., secondary and tertiary flavors and aromas found only in vintage wines). He will also discuss cellaring and wine collecting. Aglianico, Sangiovese, and Nebbiolo are just some of the grape varieties that will be tasted (young and old).

Italian Wine and Cheese
Saturday, November 4, 1:30 p.m. ($85)


What could be better than having dinner with Charles and Michele Scicolone over a variety of Italian wines and cheeses at I Trulli, where Michele discusses the formaggi and Charles pairs the wines? In what has become one our most popular courses, Charles and Michele hold court at the restaurant and discuss fresh, aged, and ripened cheeses, cow's milk vs. goat's vs. sheeps, and in what has proved to be the high point of the event, Michele tries to stump Charles with an unusual and hard-to-pair cheese. This seminar fills up fast and availability is extremely limited.

Grappa and Italian Brandy
Wednesday, November 8, 6:30 p.m. ($75)


Back by popular request, the Grappa and Italian Brandy seminar includes a tasting of a wide variety of distillates, fruit- and pomace-based (spitting is encouraged!). Following the grappa mania of the late 1980s and early 90s, a tide of grappa flowed into this country, not all of it good. Today, myriad labels are available to the consumer but quality varies greatly and in some cases, you pay more for the hand-blown Murano bottles than you do for the contents. As an extra added bonus, I Trulli and Vino's Operations Manager Jim Hutchinson will lead a hands-on demonstration of how to prepare a flavored grappa (an excellent holiday gift idea).

Amarone and the Wines of Verona
Wednesday, November 15, 6:30 p.m. ($95)


This class is a must for collectors of Italian wine. The wines of Verona and the Valpolicella are often Italy's most misunderstood and are certainly among the most unique in the panorama of Italian winemaking. Amarone and Recioto (both dried-grape wines) are some of the world's most collected and collectible appellations. These are long-lived wines with great power and depth. But the province of Verona also produces Soave, an appellation that has enjoyed a renaissance as winemakers have moved away from commercial production, and a wide range of monovarietal wines. Wine director Charles Scicolone leads a guided tasting that includes dry and sweet wines, white and red classics, and some of the cutting-edge and more unusual labels that have appeared in recent years.

 

 

Wine Opinion: De Gustibus Disputandum... est!!!

 

There's an old saying in the wine trade: "if a wine scores 89, it will not sell. If it scores 90, you can’t keep it in stock." This system, known as the "100 Point System," may or may not have been invented by Robert Parker. Today, in almost every American publication, the 100 Point system seems to be the only the way to rate wines. In my opinion, this is a system that is easy to understand. If you give a wine an A, B, or a C, or if you give it 3, 2, or 1 glasses or grape bunches, there is plenty of leeway. For example, an A could be anywhere from 90 to 100. And just what is a glass anyway? But who can argue with a wine that gets 100 points?

At Vino, we do not have a point system. Even some publications that use the 100 Point system admit that it has many faults. But it is so popular that they consider it a necessary element for the success of their magazines. There is one publication that uses the system but also puts out one issue each year where no wines are judged using numerical ratings. It's not surprising that issue sells the fewest copies each year.

I feel that to rate a wine in this way does not really express anything about the wine, how the wine tastes, or whether or not you will like the wine. Is the 100 points given because this is a wine that deserves 100 points above all other wines? Or because it is the best wine of its type? Descriptions about a wine are much better because they at least give you some idea of what the wine may taste like. But remember: all of this is very, very subjective.

Thursday, August 24, is my birthday and I am picking five wines that we will taste that evening and if there is any left, I will take it home and drink it for dinner. These wines are all made in a traditional style, which expresses the terroir and the grape and they are all very good food wines.

When you taste these wines, and I tell you about them, I will not say that this wine got an A or a B or that this wine is a 90 point wine or a 100 point wine. I selected these wines because I appreciate them and there is no way that I could possibly give these wines a numerical rating. Drinking wine should be pleasurable. You should drink what you like. Unfortunately, the only way to is to taste the wine and to make up your own mind. That does not mean that you should not read these publications. Pay attention to the their descriptions of the wine. Find a publication where the people who are evaluating the wines seem to have the same palate as you. Get to understand what kind of wines these evaluators like or choose.

The Latins used to say de gustibus non est disputandum. In other words, one should not discuss or dispute others' tastes. In Sicily, they have a similar expression, a ciascuno il suo, or "to each his own." I feel that in polite company, this is a good rule of thumb to go by. But when it comes to tasting wine, I believe the exact opposite is true: we should discuss our taste and our palate. The greatest part of drinking wine is sharing that subjective experience. In other words, the greatest pleasure comes from eating, drinking, and discussing together. Therefore, I say, de gustibus disputandum est!

On August 24, Mt. Vesuvius erupted and destroyed the bustling city of Pompeii. This happened in 79 A.D. I was born on August 24 but I'm not quite that old. Please join me this Thursday and Friday to taste some of my favorite wines.
--Charles Scicolone, Wine Director, I Trulli and Vino

Charles would love to hear from you. Please email him at charles@vinosite.com.