Ever since Charles and I wrote our book, Pizza Any Way You Slice It, friends have made an effort
to inform us about the newest trendy pizzerias. We dutifully try them and
have found that they all have a lot in common. For example, the pizza maker
is tough-looking and tattooed and talks passionately about pies. Each day, he
makes a limited supply of dough that may or may not run out before the last
guest is served. The pizzerias are located in simple storefronts with the
most basic decor. Sinatra plays constantly on the speakers and the walls are
decorated with religious statues and autographed pictures of the Sopranos.
Despite all the trappings, what we did not find was great pizza. Either the crusts lacked flavor or they were too thin and
crisp or, worst of all, they became tough as soon as the pizza cooled down.
The toppings included mozzarella that could have been manufactured by Bazooka
and an overspiced sauce. None compared to the pizzas
we enjoy in Napoli.
What makes pizza napolitana so great? The crust is
neither too thick nor too thin. It has good flavor: yeasty, smoky, and
sometimes a bit tangy with a hint of sourdough. It is light and crisp, yet
pleasantly chewy and folds without cracking. The classic toppings are never
overwhelming. Crushed ripe tomatoes are the foundation, never a sauce which
would overcook in the ferociously hot ovens. The mozzarella is fresh, mild,
and creamy; never rubbery or tough. Add a few leaves of fresh basil and you
have a Margherita, the apotheosis of pizza.
If you have never been to Napoli but enjoy
traveling in Italy,
I recommend you put it at the top of your list of places to go. Charles and I
are hosting a pizza and vino tour in Naples and the surrounding
region this spring. If you would like to find out more about it, go to www.CantalupoTours.com.
Here are some of my favorite pizzerias in Napoli:
Ristorate Ciro
Santa Brigida, 71/74, Via S. Brigida, 081 5524072. Wonderful pizza and also a full
restaurant. Centrally located off the main shopping street. The old-timey waiters are friendly, especially if you can use a
few words of Italian and show a real interest in the food. The Pizza d'Oro is my favorite here, made with mozzarella di bufala and tiny, ripe cherry tomatoes known as piennoli. In the winter they make genuine minestra maritata,
which is not "wedding soup" as it is called here, but "wedded
soup," referring to the marriage of the meats and vegetables from long, slow simmering. Their seafood soup is outstanding
too.
Da Michele, 1/3, Via Cesare Sersale, 081 5539204.
Only 2 kinds of pizza are served at this wildly popular pizzeria. Go early or
late to avoid the crowds of wealthy Neapolitans lined up outside for their
Margherita or Marinara pizzas. If you have a problem locating the tiny
street, remember that the restaurant is almost directly opposite Pizzeria Trianon.
Pizzeria Trianon, 44/46, Via Colletta, 081 5539426. Pizzas here are larger than the
usual small Neapolitan size, and the crusts are feather-light. Trianon offers one of the largest varieties of pizza and
has several dining rooms on different levels.
Da Ettore
Ristorante e Pizzeria, 56, Via Santa Lucia, 081 7640498. In addition to
the excellent pizzas, Da Ettore
has excellent fried appetizers, such as stuffed zucchini flowers. They also
make pagnotiello, a folded round of pizza
dough stuffed with your choice of cheeses, meats or vegetables. The location
is convenient, near the hotels on the harbor.
L'Europeo di Mattozzi,
4, Via Marchese Campodisola,
081 5521323. Everything is good at Europeo. After a
magnificent pizza or two, try one of the wonderful soups or pastas. The pasta
alla genovese, rigatoni with a thick onion sauce,
is just like my grandma's.
If you aren't able to go to Napoli, try this recipe
from Pizza Anyway You Slice It, or go to La Pizza Fresca
(31 E. 20th St., between Park Ave. and Broadway, 212-598-0141), our favorite
New York pizzeria.
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PROSCIUTTO, ARUGULA, AND MOZZARELLA PIZZA
Makes two 12-inch pizzas
Sauce:
1 can (14 ounces) Italian peeled tomatoes with their juice, chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
3 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 basil leaves, torn into bits
Dough and toppings:
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
1-1/4 cups warm water (105-115 degrees F)
1 cup plain cake flour (not self-rising)
2-1/2 to 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
Olive oil for the bowl
2 ounces mozzarella, thinly sliced (use fresh mozzarella if possible)
3 - 4 very thin slices prosciutto
1 cup arugula, tough stems removed
1. To make the sauce: in a saucepan, combine tomatoes with their juice, oil,
and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally,
until thickened, about 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in the basil. Let the sauce
cool before spreading it on the pizza dough.
2. Sprinkle the yeast over the water. Let stand 1 minute or until creamy.
Stir until the yeast dissolves.
3. In a large bowl combine the cake flour, 2-1/2 cups of the all-purpose
flour, and the salt. Add the yeast mixture and stir until a soft dough forms.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and
elastic, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining flour, a little at a time, as
needed.
4. Lightly coat a large bowl with oil. Place the dough in the bowl, turning
it to oil the top. Cover with plastic wrap. Let rise in a warm draft-free
place until doubled, about 1-1/2 hours.
5. Flatten the dough with your fist. Cut the dough evenly into two pieces and
shape them into balls.
6. Place the balls on a floured surface and dust with flour. Cover each with
plastic wrap, allowing room for the dough to expand. Let rise one hour, or
until doubled in volume.
7. 30 to 60 minutes before baking the pizzas, place a pizza stone or unglazed
quarry tiles on a rack in the center of the oven. Turn on the oven to the
maximum, 500, or 550 degrees F.
8. When the oven is heated, place one piece of the dough on a lightly floured
surface. With your fingers, stretch and flatten the dough out into a 12-inch
circle making a slightly higher rim all around. Dust a pizza peel with flour.
Place the dough on the peel, shaking it once or twice to make sure it does
not stick. If it does, lift the dough and dust the peel with more flour.
9. Spread about half of the tomato sauce on the dough, avoiding the rim.
Arrange half the mozzarella slices on top.
10. Immediately slide the pizza onto the baking stone. Bake 7 to 8 minutes or
until the edges are puffed and the crust is crisp and golden brown.
11. Remove the pizza to a cutting board. Arrange half the arugula
over the cheese. Place half the prosciutto on top.
Cut into wedges to serve. Make a second pizza with the remaining ingredients.
Copyright 1999, Pizza Any Way You Slice It (Broadway), by Michele and
Charles Scicolone, ISBN: 978-0-7679-0373-8
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