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This Wednesday
I lead a seminar for the Italian Trade Commission on sparkling wine.
Sparkling wine is made all over Italy and in fact, about one fourth of one billion
bottles are produced each year. Some of it is made in what has been referred
to as the metodo classico or metodo tradizionale, the classic
or tradtiional method, better known as the Champagne method. This is the
traditional way for making double-fermented-in-bottle wines.
These particular wines, I believe, suffer from their comparison to the wines
made in the region of Champagne, France, especially in America where we tend
to think of Champagne as the producer of prestigious bubbly wines. Also, when
Americans are looking for inexpensive wines, they tend to go to the
Californians. The Italian versions are just as expensive as the French.
On New Year's eve, Vino can sometimes be a lonesome place! In my opinion, the
difference between French Champagne and Italian traditional- or
classic-method wines is that the Italian grapes are a little riper and
therefore the wine is a little riper. It does not have the acidity that the
French versions do. They really should not be compared but should be drunk according
to the style that you like.
The Franciacorta appellation, which is in Lombardia, has stricter rules for
making sparkling wine than any other place on earth. Winemakers there will
become very upset if you mention the words spumante or metodo
classico in the same breath with their wines. The wine should only be
referred to as Franciacorta!
When you ask for a glass of Franciacorta, you know you will get sparkling
wine made in the traditional style. I use the word sparkling loosely here
because they would get upset if you called their wine sparkling even though
it says "sparkling wine from Italy" in very small letters on the
bottom of the label.
One of my favorite Franciacortas is the wine made by Ca' del Bosco (the wine
of the week), produced by the legendary winemaker Maurizio Zannella. His Brut
is one of the best wines of this type and his Dosage Zero is something I
drink whenever I can. In fact, a few years ago, at the wedding of a very good
friend, I drank Ca' del Bosco Brut throughout the festivities and meal and
found it not only good before dinner but during dinner and also after dinner.
Sometimes when the mood fits me, I will drink this with lobster and sometimes
with pizza.
Franciacorta is always good for festive occasions, it is a great summer wine,
or just drinking by itself on your terrace, by your pool, or even your stoop
in Brooklyn.
- Charles Scicolone, Wine Director, I Trulli and Vino
Charles would love to hear from you. Please email your questions or comments
to charles@vinosite.com.
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